Thursday, March 11, 2010

Paella Lessons From A Master

Last Christmas my boyfriend received a paella pan from his brother’s partner, Alex Province. Even better, Alex gave him detailed instructions on how to make this traditional Spanish dish. Although Alex was raised in the United States, he was born in Madrid and went to graduate school in Spain. Today he is a manager for a wine company, owner of a Spanish wine import company, and a paella connoisseur.

“Paella (pah-EY-uh) is designed to be a peasant dish,” Alex explained to us. “It’s a philosophy and a cooking style more than a formula.” The basic idea is to combine rice, veggies, and meat or seafood in a shallow pan and cook it until it becomes major comfort food. The following are some tips for making great paella at home.

First is the pan. A paella pan, which is large and shallow, helps but is not absolutely necessary. A large frying pan is a decent stand-in. Alex recommends measuring out the volume your pan can hold by pouring water into it before you get started. You can measure how much the pan will comfortably hold and make adjustments to your recipe from there.
Next is the rice. It’s important to use Valencia rice, which is intended for paella. “Make sure you don’t put too much rice in the pan,” Alex advises. “You want a nice, thin layer.” No matter how much paella you cook you’ll want to stick to a ratio of two cups of hot stock per one cup of rice.

Your goal with paella is to make sure all the liquid has absorbed by the time the rice is tender. You’ll want to carefully monitor your paella while it’s on the stovetop to make sure it doesn’t burn, but don’t stir it while it’s cooking. It will make the rice mushy. Finishing the paella in the oven is possible if you can’t get even heat on the stovetop. If you think you might do that, make sure your pan is oven safe before you get started. Also, tenting your paella with foil at the end of the cooking process will help the rice suck up the extra liquid, so it’s okay for there to be some liquid in the pan when you take it off the stove.

Use high quality stock for paella. Saffron is one of the things that makes this dish special, and you’ll want to put the saffron in the stock before it’s added to the rice.

When Alex makes paella he makes sofrito first (although that’s not included in my recipe). Sofrito is basically tomatoes, onion, garlic and bell peppers cooked to a mushy paste. If you want to use sofrito you can make it in advance and store it in the fridge. Leftovers are delicious with eggs, beans, or on steak.

Once you have all the ingredients (and the pan) squared away you can start thinking about what kind of meat to put in your paella. Seafood is a classic. So is rabbit and bacon, or chicken and chorizo (a spicy Spanish sausage). Alex says a combination of seafood and meat is his favorite. That being said, this is an easy dish to make vegetarian.

The recipe for Basic Paella is the one my sweetie tried when we got home, but it’s just something to get you started. Please take the elements of paella described here and play with them until you have something that suits your family’s tastes.

And don’t be disappointed if it doesn’t turn out perfect the first time. “Paella takes practice,” Alex says. “As long as the rice is cooked right you’ll end up with an edible treat that will wow your friends.” Even the master confesses, “I’m still, to this day, trying to recreate paella as good as my mother’s.”

Basic Paella
Makes 8 servings
4 chicken thighs
4 t. smoked Spanish paprika
Salt and pepper
1 chorizo sausage, sliced
3 T. olive oil, divided
1 8-ounce can chopped tomatoes, drained
1 onion, chopped
1 green pepper, chopped
1 red pepper, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 c. Valencia rice
1 c. white wine
4 c. chicken stock
Pinch saffron
1 c. frozen peas

Season chicken with paprika, salt and pepper. Cook in paella pan until chicken is browned and beginning to caramelize. Remove chicken and keep warm. Add chorizo to pan and cook through. Remove chorizo and keep warm.

Heat 1 T. oil in paella pan. Add tomatoes, onion, peppers and garlic and cook until very soft and mushy. Remove vegetables.

In the meantime, heat stock in a saucepan. When stock is simmering, add saffron. Cover and keep warm.

Heat remaining 2 T. oil in paella pan. Add rice and stir until well coated and transparent, about 2 minutes. Add wine and stir, scraping up any brown bits on the bottom of the pan. Return vegetables to pan and pour in stock. Stir gently to evenly distribute ingredients. Taste paella and add additional salt and/or pepper if necessary. Nestle chicken thighs and chorizo in rice.

Bring paella to a gentle boil and cook for 15-20 minutes, or until almost all the liquid has been absorbed. (If necessary, heat water in the same pan as the stock and add ½ cup at a time) Do not stir paella while it is cooking, and do not let the bottom scorch. Add peas about 5 minutes before the paella is done cooking.

To finish, tent with foil for 10 minutes.

NOTE: If liquid has not absorbed after 20 minutes, consider finishing the paella in the oven. Cook at 350 degrees for about 10 minutes.

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