Rubus armeniacus may be the bane of gardeners everywhere, but they’re a guilty pleasure for cooks. Also known as the Armenian or Himalayan Blackberry, these vicious vines have a habit of taking over flower beds and roadside right-of-ways if left to their own devices.
That’s bad news for native plants everywhere (including Rubus ursinus, the non-invasive blackberry that grows well in Oregon) but good news for people looking to pick free blackberries in the summertime.
Blackberries grow along the bike path where I ride almost daily, and all year I look forward to August, when their sweet smell fills the air on warm afternoons. Most days I stop on my way home from work to pick a few and enjoy them in their simplest form.
Blackberries make spectacular cooked desserts. My dear friend Rebecca Larson likes to make Blackberry Pie and offered to share her recipe for this column. However, when pressed, this was her version:
“Take as many blackberries as you can con your family or your co-workers into picking (Rebecca usually gets her blackberries in the back lot at St. Vincent de Paul in Eugene, where she works). Tell them to pick the berries into a colander so you can rinse them without transferring them into another bowl. Toss them with some flour (not too much, so you get lots of juice), about a cup of sugar (depending on how sweet they are) and around a tablespoon of orange zest. You don’t really taste the orange but it gives the berries a really rich flavor. Put them in a pie crust and dot with butter. Put a second crust on top and sprinkle with more sugar. Bake at 400 degrees for about 15 minutes, then lower the temperature to 350 degrees and bake until the crust is golden brown (about 40 minutes).
“And if your oven starts smoking before you bake the pie, it’s time to clean it. Oh well, too late!”
This freedom to experiment will surely delight experienced cooks. For those of you (like me) who prefer to cook from a recipe, try Blackberry Cobbler. This is my family’s favorite way to enjoy blackberries. It’s best served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
For a real treat you can substitute marionberries, also known as the Marion blackberry, in either of these recipes. Marionberries were developed at Oregon State University and are named after Marion County, where they were most heavily tested. They’re grown exclusively in Oregon and are renowned for their big size and rich taste. I freeze several cups every year so I can make berry pies at Thanksgiving and Christmas.
Whether you enjoy them now or later, plain or in baked goods, blackberries are a real show-stopper. Enjoy them while you can.
Blackberry Cobbler
Makes 6 to 8 servings
4 T. butter
1 c. sugar, divided
1 c. flour
2 t. baking powder
1/4 t. salt
1/2 c. milk
4 c. blackberries
1 c. apple juice
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Grease a 2 quart casserole dish. In a small bowl mix together flour, baking powder and salt; set aside.
In a mixing bowl, beat together butter and 1/2 c. sugar. Stir in flour mixture alternately with milk, beginning and ending with flour. Pour the batter into prepared dish. Top with blackberries; sprinkle with remaining 1/2 c. sugar.
In a small saucepan, heat apple juice until boiling. Pour over blackberries. Bake for 50 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the middle has only a few moist crumbs.
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Friday, August 13, 2010
Cool Off With Cool Summer Treats
Ice cream is my favorite food, and there’s no better time to enjoy it than summer. Whether it’s vanilla topped with fresh berries, or something packed with chocolate on a cone, there are lots of ways to enjoy this cool treat.
It seems like there are more choices than ever in the ice cream shop freezers. Here’s a quick guide to understanding different types of frozen desserts:
• Ice cream: Frozen dessert made with cream, egg yolks, sugar, and extras like nuts, berries or candy.
• Frozen yogurt: Made with yogurt instead of cream, making it lower in fat than many ice creams.
• Sorbet: Frozen dessert made with water and juice instead of milk. Typically flavored with fruit and/or herbs. You can make it without an ice cream maker, although the texture will be different.
• Sherbet: Confection that uses less milk than ice cream and is typically flavored with fruit juice.
• Gelato: Italian ice cream that replaces some or all of the cream with milk. Good gelato is richer and creamier than regular ice cream.
As long as you have an ice cream maker, it’s fairly easy to whip up a batch of your favorite treat at home. Orange-Lemon Gelato is sure to please and is a little different from regular ice cream.
Chocolate Ice Cream Roll is a family favorite. For years my grandmother made it for me instead of a regular birthday cake. She would even frost the top and put a couple birthday candles in it. For Christmas she would substitute peppermint ice cream for the vanilla.
These cool finishes to your meal should leave you refreshed even on the warmest summer evenings.
Orange-Lemon Gelato
Makes 8 servings
5 egg yolks
¼ c. sugar
2 c. 2% milk
4 strips orange peel
4 strips lemon peel
In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks and sugar; set aside.
Scald milk, orange peel, and lemon peel in a saucepan with a heavy bottom. Slowly whisk half the hot milk mixture into egg yolks, then return egg yolk mixture to pan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture coats the back of a spoon, about 8 minutes. Remove peel and place milk mixture in refrigerator.
When mixture is cool, freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s directions.
Chocolate Ice Cream Roll
Makes 10-12 servings
3/4 c. flour
1/4 t. salt
4 T. cocoa
1 T. lemon juice
5 eggs, separated
1 c. sugar
1 quart vanilla ice cream
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a 15” x 1” jelly roll pan with wax paper. Lay a clean dish towel (at least as large as jelly roll pan) on counter.
In a mixing bowl, beat egg whites until they hold stiff peaks, adding sugar 1 tablespoon at a time. In a separate bowl, mix flour, salt and cocoa.
In a cleaning mixing bowl, beat egg yolks with lemon juice until they hold soft peaks. Add dry ingredients and stir gently to combine. Fold in egg whites. Pour batter into jelly roll pan and bake for 15 minutes. Immediately invert cake on dish towel. Remove wax paper and roll up cake. Leave until cake has completed cooled.
When cake has almost cooled, set ice cream on counter to soften. Unroll cake and spread with ice cream. Re-roll cake. Wrap in double thickness of aluminum foil and freeze at least four hours. To serve, unwrap cake and slice with a sharp knife.
It seems like there are more choices than ever in the ice cream shop freezers. Here’s a quick guide to understanding different types of frozen desserts:
• Ice cream: Frozen dessert made with cream, egg yolks, sugar, and extras like nuts, berries or candy.
• Frozen yogurt: Made with yogurt instead of cream, making it lower in fat than many ice creams.
• Sorbet: Frozen dessert made with water and juice instead of milk. Typically flavored with fruit and/or herbs. You can make it without an ice cream maker, although the texture will be different.
• Sherbet: Confection that uses less milk than ice cream and is typically flavored with fruit juice.
• Gelato: Italian ice cream that replaces some or all of the cream with milk. Good gelato is richer and creamier than regular ice cream.
As long as you have an ice cream maker, it’s fairly easy to whip up a batch of your favorite treat at home. Orange-Lemon Gelato is sure to please and is a little different from regular ice cream.
Chocolate Ice Cream Roll is a family favorite. For years my grandmother made it for me instead of a regular birthday cake. She would even frost the top and put a couple birthday candles in it. For Christmas she would substitute peppermint ice cream for the vanilla.
These cool finishes to your meal should leave you refreshed even on the warmest summer evenings.
Orange-Lemon Gelato
Makes 8 servings
5 egg yolks
¼ c. sugar
2 c. 2% milk
4 strips orange peel
4 strips lemon peel
In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks and sugar; set aside.
Scald milk, orange peel, and lemon peel in a saucepan with a heavy bottom. Slowly whisk half the hot milk mixture into egg yolks, then return egg yolk mixture to pan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture coats the back of a spoon, about 8 minutes. Remove peel and place milk mixture in refrigerator.
When mixture is cool, freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s directions.
Chocolate Ice Cream Roll
Makes 10-12 servings
3/4 c. flour
1/4 t. salt
4 T. cocoa
1 T. lemon juice
5 eggs, separated
1 c. sugar
1 quart vanilla ice cream
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a 15” x 1” jelly roll pan with wax paper. Lay a clean dish towel (at least as large as jelly roll pan) on counter.
In a mixing bowl, beat egg whites until they hold stiff peaks, adding sugar 1 tablespoon at a time. In a separate bowl, mix flour, salt and cocoa.
In a cleaning mixing bowl, beat egg yolks with lemon juice until they hold soft peaks. Add dry ingredients and stir gently to combine. Fold in egg whites. Pour batter into jelly roll pan and bake for 15 minutes. Immediately invert cake on dish towel. Remove wax paper and roll up cake. Leave until cake has completed cooled.
When cake has almost cooled, set ice cream on counter to soften. Unroll cake and spread with ice cream. Re-roll cake. Wrap in double thickness of aluminum foil and freeze at least four hours. To serve, unwrap cake and slice with a sharp knife.
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
Cooking with Flowers
Strolling through the Farmers’ Market the other day, a bag of salad greens with spots of red and yellow popped out at me. Exotic lettuce? Actually, nasturtiums, edible flowers that have an intense peppery bite. They’re delicious in salads and add a gorgeous touch to the dinner table.
A surprising number of flowers are edible. A publication from the Colorado State University Extension Service lists over 20 common flowers that can be eaten, including nasturtiums, lavender, pansies and scented geraniums. Hibiscus syrup and rose water can be used in everything from meat dishes to desserts. Many herb flowers, such as chives and thyme, also make nice garnishes for salads.
If you’re thinking about including edible flowers in your next meal, seek out blooms that are organic or have not been sprayed with pesticides. If possible, pick the flowers right before you use them. Most can be stored in the refrigerator for a couple hours.
Research your bloom of choice before you use it. On some flowers, only certain parts (usually the petals) are edible. You may need to remove the pistils, sepals and/or stamens, which can be bitter, before eating.
Most important, if you’re in doubt about whether a flower is really edible, don’t eat it.
Stuffed with an herbed ricotta cheese mixture and dipped in tempura batter, Fried Squash Blossoms are delicious and fun. The tempura recipe calls for club soda, which makes the batter lighter. This recipe is based on one from the University of Illinois Extension Service website, which also has great advice about choosing and picking squash blossoms from your own yard.
Lavender brings a soft floral taste and fragrance to baked goods. Honey Lavender Cornbread is a nice way to showcase it. The bread, which doesn’t skimp on the honey, is more dessert than side dish. Crush the lavender blossoms with your fingers before mixing them into the batter to make them less intense.
Many dishes with edible flowers are pretty enough that you won’t need a separate centerpiece. Just put your salad, squash blossoms or whatever else in the middle of the table so everyone can enjoy the flowers before they dig in.
Fried Squash Blossoms
Makes 16 servings
16 squash blossoms
1/4 c. ricotta cheese
1 garlic clove, minced
1/4 t. salt
1/4 t. pepper
1 T. fresh herbs (such as basil, thyme or parsley), minced
2 c. rice flour
1/2 t. salt
2 c. cold club soda
Canola oil for frying
In a small bowl, combine cheese, garlic, salt, pepper and herbs. Spoon about ½ teaspoon of mixture into center of each blossom. Twist top of each blossom together to seal. Put stuffed blossoms on a baking sheet and refrigerate for 15 minutes.
Mix flour and salt in a large shallow bowl. Add club soda and gently stir.
Heat 1/2” of canola oil in a skillet to 350 degrees. Dip blossoms in tempura batter, then carefully fry on each side in oil until golden brown, 1-2 minutes per side. Do not crowd the pan, and keep oil as close to 350 degrees as possible. Remove blossoms with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Serve warm.
Honey Lavender Cornbread
Makes 10-12 servings
1/3 c. butter, softened
1/3 c. honey
2 eggs
1 t. vanilla
1 t. lavender flowers
1-1/4 c. all-purpose flour
3/4 c. cornmeal
1 T. baking powder
1 t. coarse salt
1 c. milk
2 t. sugar
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 8-1/2” x 4-1/2” loaf pan; set aside. In a large bowl combine flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt; set aside.
In a mixing bowl, cream butter and honey. Beat in eggs, vanilla and lavender flowers. Add dry ingredients alternately with milk.
Pour batter into prepared pan. Sprinkle sugar over the top. Cook for 40-50 minutes or until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean. Let cool for 10 minutes, then remove from pan and place on a wire rack. Let bread cool completely before slicing.
A surprising number of flowers are edible. A publication from the Colorado State University Extension Service lists over 20 common flowers that can be eaten, including nasturtiums, lavender, pansies and scented geraniums. Hibiscus syrup and rose water can be used in everything from meat dishes to desserts. Many herb flowers, such as chives and thyme, also make nice garnishes for salads.
If you’re thinking about including edible flowers in your next meal, seek out blooms that are organic or have not been sprayed with pesticides. If possible, pick the flowers right before you use them. Most can be stored in the refrigerator for a couple hours.
Research your bloom of choice before you use it. On some flowers, only certain parts (usually the petals) are edible. You may need to remove the pistils, sepals and/or stamens, which can be bitter, before eating.
Most important, if you’re in doubt about whether a flower is really edible, don’t eat it.
Stuffed with an herbed ricotta cheese mixture and dipped in tempura batter, Fried Squash Blossoms are delicious and fun. The tempura recipe calls for club soda, which makes the batter lighter. This recipe is based on one from the University of Illinois Extension Service website, which also has great advice about choosing and picking squash blossoms from your own yard.
Lavender brings a soft floral taste and fragrance to baked goods. Honey Lavender Cornbread is a nice way to showcase it. The bread, which doesn’t skimp on the honey, is more dessert than side dish. Crush the lavender blossoms with your fingers before mixing them into the batter to make them less intense.
Many dishes with edible flowers are pretty enough that you won’t need a separate centerpiece. Just put your salad, squash blossoms or whatever else in the middle of the table so everyone can enjoy the flowers before they dig in.
Fried Squash Blossoms
Makes 16 servings
16 squash blossoms
1/4 c. ricotta cheese
1 garlic clove, minced
1/4 t. salt
1/4 t. pepper
1 T. fresh herbs (such as basil, thyme or parsley), minced
2 c. rice flour
1/2 t. salt
2 c. cold club soda
Canola oil for frying
In a small bowl, combine cheese, garlic, salt, pepper and herbs. Spoon about ½ teaspoon of mixture into center of each blossom. Twist top of each blossom together to seal. Put stuffed blossoms on a baking sheet and refrigerate for 15 minutes.
Mix flour and salt in a large shallow bowl. Add club soda and gently stir.
Heat 1/2” of canola oil in a skillet to 350 degrees. Dip blossoms in tempura batter, then carefully fry on each side in oil until golden brown, 1-2 minutes per side. Do not crowd the pan, and keep oil as close to 350 degrees as possible. Remove blossoms with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Serve warm.
Honey Lavender Cornbread
Makes 10-12 servings
1/3 c. butter, softened
1/3 c. honey
2 eggs
1 t. vanilla
1 t. lavender flowers
1-1/4 c. all-purpose flour
3/4 c. cornmeal
1 T. baking powder
1 t. coarse salt
1 c. milk
2 t. sugar
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 8-1/2” x 4-1/2” loaf pan; set aside. In a large bowl combine flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt; set aside.
In a mixing bowl, cream butter and honey. Beat in eggs, vanilla and lavender flowers. Add dry ingredients alternately with milk.
Pour batter into prepared pan. Sprinkle sugar over the top. Cook for 40-50 minutes or until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean. Let cool for 10 minutes, then remove from pan and place on a wire rack. Let bread cool completely before slicing.
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