Top Five Egg Dishes

In 2008 my mom and I became the proud of owners of two chickens, which we raised in our backyard. We spent many wonderful afternoon watching the birds run around the yard, scratching for worms and generally behaving like goofballs. The eggs were amazing - and plentiful, even in the winter. Sadly, those chickens met their eternal reward in the jaws of a raccoon a year and a half later.

After an extended period of mourning, we're finally back to chicken raising. Two weeks ago my mom got six adorable baby chicks (pictured above). There's an Ameraucana, a Buff Orpington, a Rhode Island Red, a Black Australorp, and two Sex Links (their unfortunate name comes from the fact that boys and girls are different colors when they're born). Even though I'm not living there anymore she's letting me participate as a part-time chicken mama.

At some point, six chickens will mean a lot of eggs. Combine that with the fact that Easter is just around the corner, and our little furry 'n' feathered friends got me thinking about ways to use a lot of eggs. Here are five ideas:

Growing up, our favorite egg dish was Chili Cheese Egg Puff, an amazing recipe from a friend of my mom's. It's a perfect breakfast or brunch item and is good served hot or room temperature. To make a full meal out of it, serve it with freshly cooked black beans, salsa and sour cream.

Toto Vo was one of my cooking buddies in Portland. He introduced me to Robert Rodriguez's Breakfast Tacos. Rodriguez directed such epic movies as Sin City and From Dusk till Dawn. One of the "extras" on all his DVDs is a 10-minute cooking lesson. They're hilarious, and he's a really good cook. The cooking school on the Sin City DVD gives instructions for Breakfast Tacos, which are good any time of day. You can check it out on YouTube.

Spanish Tortilla is another great way to use eggs. Quite different from tortilla wraps, this dish consists of fried potatoes and onions cooked with beaten eggs. Super simple and surprisingly delicious. The first time I enjoyed this dish it was prepared by Alex Province, Christopher's brother-in-law, who was previously introduced to you as the Paella Master. My recipe, which I've used several times since, is below. The trickiest thing about it is flipping the tortilla when it's time to cook the other side. It may take you a couple times to get the hang out it. Flipping the tortilla over the sink will catch any egg that might run out of the pan. If you really can't get the hang of it, make your tortilla in a cast iron pan and finish it in the oven.

My newest egg concoction is Double Mustard Strata, which I made for our annual Spring Brunch this year. It has prepared mustard and mustard greens (thus the name), but you could substitute other types of greens (such as spinach) in the recipes. See below for the recipe.

Finally, forget about all these savory dishes. If you really want to impress people, check out Martha Stewart's recipe for Chocolate Pavlova. I don't usually care for meringue, and I'd never liked pavlova - until I tried this one. It will knock your socks off, especially if you're a chocolate lover. Even my sister, who doesn't have much of a sweet tooth, loves this dessert.

Happy egg dying, cooking and hunting! I'm looking forward to the time several months from now when we're hunting freshly laid chicken eggs in the backyard.


Double Mustard Strata
Makes 12 servings
4 slices day-old white bread, cubed
4 slices day-old wheat or rye bread, cubed
1 c. Gruyere cheese, grated, divided
1/2 onion, chopped
2 c. chopped mustard greens
7 eggs
3 c. milk
3 t. Dijon mustard
1 t. salt

Layer bread in bottom of a 9" x 13" dish. Layer with 3/4 c. cheese, onion, greens, and remaining cheese.

In a separate bowl, combine eggs, milk, mustard and salt. Pour over bread mixture. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Remove from refrigerator 30 minutes before baking. Bake at 325 degrees for 45 minutes or until browned and bubbly. If desired, turn oven to broil and cook until cheese is lightly browned, about 5 minutes.

Spanish Tortilla
Makes 6 servings
1 pound potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
1 onion, thinly sliced
2 T. olive oil
4 eggs

Heat oil in a non-stick or well seasoned cast iron pan over low heat. Add potatoes and onions and cook, stirring frequently, until potatoes are tender, 10-15 minutes.

In the meantime, break eggs into a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Pour eggs over potato mixture. Cook until eggs are mostly set, about 10 minutes.

Place a plate on top of pan and carefully flip tortilla over. Slide tortilla back into pan. Place pan back on heat and cook until egg is set, 2-3 minutes. Place on a clean plate and cut into wedges.

Explore the Amazing World of Indian Food

My first introduction to Indian food came while I was living in England. “Curry houses,” as the British call them, can be found all over the United Kingdom.

India was a British colony for roughly a century. As a result, many Indians immigrated to the United Kingdom. Today Indian restaurants are as common in Britain as Mexican restaurants in western America.

I knew good Indian food places would be few and far between when I got back home, so I learned as much as I could about Indian cooking while living overseas. It continues to be one of my favorite cuisines to make at home. Indian food is delicious, different, and relatively inexpensive. After you purchase your cut of meat, the remaining ingredients (such as spices, lentils, yogurt, and vegetables like potatoes, onions and tomatoes) are quite affordable.

Understanding Indian food is largely about understanding the spices involved in cooking it. Garam masala and curry powder are among the most common ingredients in Indian recipes. Both are spice blends whose contents vary by region. Black pepper, cumin, coriander (cilantro seeds), and cinnamon are common ingredients in garam masala. Curry powder almost always features turmeric, a bright yellow spice that will stain your clothes and kitchen towels.

Recipes frequently call for whole (not ground) spices as well. Cumin and coriander seeds are commonly used. So is whole cardamom in its green or black pods. The crunchy yellow or black seeds that have a starring role in many recipes are mustard seeds. In some cases the recipe may direct you to lightly fry the seeds in oil first to bring out their taste and aroma.

Saffron, the world’s most expensive spice, makes an appearance in many Indian dishes. Saffron comes from a particular breed of crocus and is native to southeast Asia. It imparts a unique, almost bitter flavor.

A good starting point for Indian food newbies is Chicken Korma. The creamy dish is easy to make and has a mild flavor. The recipe calls for Greek-style yogurt, which you can easily make yourself if you can’t find it at the store. Line a strainer with cheesecloth or a clean linen napkin. Place the strainer in a small bowl. Add the plain yogurt, then cover it and set the strainer and bowl in the refrigerator for a few hours. Some of the moisture will drain off, leaving you with a thicker yogurt that will work well in this dish.

Pilau Rice, an Indian-style rice pilaf, will add a special touch to many of your Indian food creations. You can substitute white or basmati rice as a side dish.

If this meal piques your interest, keep exploring! There is a wide world of tandoori, rogan josh, tikka masala, naan, aloo gobi, and other dishes that awaits you.

Chicken Korma
Makes 4 servings
3 chicken breasts, cut into cubes
1 T. butter
1/2 onion, finely chopped
4 t. garlic, minced
2 t. garam masala
1/4 c. cream
1/4 c. milk
1/4 c. plain Greek-style yogurt
2 T. ground almonds
4-5 saffron strands
Cooked rice

In a large skillet over medium heat, brown chicken in butter. Add onion and sauté until onion begins to soften. Add garlic and garam masala and cook for 1 minute, stirring often. Add cream, milk, yogurt and almonds. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add saffron near the end of cooking time. Serve over rice.

Pilau Rice
Makes 4 servings
2-1/2 c. chicken stock
4-5 saffron strands
2 T. butter
1/2 onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 cinnamon stick
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
1-1/4 c. jasmine rice

Heat chicken stock in a small saucepan. Add saffron and set aside.

Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and cook until soft. Add garlic and spices and cook for 2 minutes, stirring often.

Add rice and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or until rice grains are thoroughly coated in butter. Add hot stock and bring to a boil. Stir once, cover, and turn heat to low. Cook for 15 minutes or until rice is tender. Remove cinnamon stick and bay leaves before serving.

Herb Garden Spreads Culinary Joy

Every time we’ve had a sunny day recently I’ve started dreaming about getting into my yard and planting vegetables. Then it rains, and my enthusiasm fizzles a little.

If spring’s unpredictable weather has you in a funk, start your gardening season by planting a container herb garden. Fresh herbs will add a delicious dimension to your cooking. They bring lots of flavor to dishes without adding salt. Raising your own herb patch is also a great way to save money. Herbs can be expensive this time of year, and you often have to buy them in large bunches even if you only need a couple teaspoons.

Many herbs grow well in pots or other containers. You can grow some warm weather herbs, like basil and cilantro, in the house if you have a sunny window. Herbs are beautiful mixed into a flower bed if you happen to have one. Some of them, like chives and oregano, produce flowers once the weather starts to warm up.

Parsley, thyme, oregano, chives, sage and rosemary are fairly hardy and can survive most Oregon winters. If you want to grow mint I would definitely advise growing it in a pot. Mint grows on runners and can quickly take over the yard. Most garden stores sell herb starts that you can take home, plunk in a pot, and start harvesting from (sparingly) right away. Make sure the pot and soil have good drainage, and water your plants regularly.

Lamb Stew has plenty of yummy herbs and is a great way to use a meat that’s often associated with spring. It tastes best after the flavors have time to blend, so I usually make it the day before I want to serve it. If you’re looking for something different for Easter dinner, Lamb Stew is a great choice.

Lemon-Herb Chicken is fast and easy to make. You can use whatever herbs you have on hand and it will still taste delicious.

Dried herbs work in these recipes too. Use one-third the amount of fresh herbs called for, as dried herbs have a stronger flavor. (For example, if a recipe calls for 1 tablespoon of fresh herbs, substitute 1 teaspoon of dried herbs.)

However, I’d suggest using fresh herbs whenever possible. It’s hard enough to find fresh food this time of year. Herbs are an easy way to capture the taste of spring without much effort or cost.

Lamb Stew
Makes 4 servings
1-1/2 lbs. lamb, cut into cubes
2 T. butter, divided
3 onions, quartered
3 carrots, thickly sliced
4 small red potatoes, quartered
2 c. beef stock
1/2 t. salt
1/4 t. pepper
1 T. flour
2 t. parsley, chopped
2 t. chives, chopped
1 t. thyme, chopped

Melt 1 T. butter in a large oven-proof kettle with lid. Saute meat over medium heat until brown; remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Saute carrots and onions in drippings until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add lamb, potatoes, stock, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil. Remove from stove, cover and place in oven. Bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour.

Remove meat and vegetables with a slotted spoon; set aside. Pour pan juices into a separate bowl. Add remaining 1 T. butter to pan and melt over medium heat. Add flour and stir until smooth. Whisk in pan juices. Bring to a boil and stir until thickened. Return meat and vegetables to pan. Add herbs and heat through.

Lemon-Herb Chicken with Angel Hair
Makes 2 servings
1/4 lb. angel hair pasta
1 T. butter
2 chicken breasts, cut into cubes
2 T. lemon juice
1 T. olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 T. minced mixed herbs (such as oregano, sage, thyme and rosemary)
1/4 t. pepper
1/4 c. parmesan cheese

Cook pasta according to package directions.

In the meantime, heat butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add chicken and cook until no longer pink. Add lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, herbs, and pepper. Cook, stirring often, for 1-2 minutes. Serve chicken over cooked pasta; sprinkle with parmesan cheese.

Cacao Tree Inspires Chocolate Desserts

Christopher and I recently traveled to Kauai, the western-most Hawaiian island. We enjoyed some good food on our trip, including Kalua pork nachos, fresh pineapple, and a pie made with macadamia nut ice cream. However, my best foodie discovery turned out to be something I saw rather than something I ate.

One of our outings was a visit to the McBryde Garden, a tropical botanical garden. They have a variety of culinary plants including allspice and pepper trees, vanilla bean vines, ginger and turmeric roots, and – best of all – Theobroma cacao, the tree that produces chocolate.

Chocolate starts its life in a purple oblong pod. The pods produce seeds that are dried, roasted, and broken open to reveal the cocoa nibs, the real source of chocolate. The nibs are ground to produce cocoa butter and a dark brown liquid called chocolate liquor. The liquor can be left as-is and sold as unsweetened baking chocolate. Manufacturers add sugar and cocoa butter to produce bittersweet and semi-sweet chocolate. The addition of milk (either powdered or condensed) produces milk chocolate. Cocoa butter without the liquor makes white chocolate. Liquor with most of the fat and liquid removed is ground into baking cocoa.

Winter comes even in Kauai, so most of the culinary plants weren’t producing anything. The cacao tree, on the other hand, had dozens of purple pods hanging from it. That beautiful tree was the inspiration for this column, and I’m delighted to share a couple of my favorite chocolate recipes with you.

The first is Chocolate-Glazed Chocolate Tart. This recipe from Gourmet Magazine is the best chocolate dessert I've had in a long time. Thanks to my friend Shannon for bringing it to a party and passing on the recipe. The tart is super rich, so plan to cut it into very small slices.

You won’t believe something as amazing as Honey-Almond Truffles can have only three ingredients. A friend in Portland brought these to a Christmas party one year and I immediately asked for the recipe.

Another of my favorite chocolate desserts is Turtle Brownie Sundaes. It’s hard to beat chewy brownies topped with vanilla ice cream, caramel ice cream topping and pecans. After eating a macadamia nut turtle on Kauai I’m convinced you could substitute macadamia nuts for the pecans in this recipe with delicious – and tropical – results.

Honey-Almond Truffles
1 c. roasted unsalted almonds
¼ c. honey
1 c. bittersweet chocolate

Finely grind almonds. Pour into a bowl; mix in honey to make a paste (if honey is too thick, warm slightly to liquefy). Cover bowl and chill for one hour.

Shape mixture into balls no more than 1” in diameter. Set on a baking sheet lined with wax paper and chill in freezer for 30 minutes.

Melt chocolate in double boiler or microwave. Dip balls in chocolate until completely coated. Drizzle any remaining chocolate decoratively over the top. Chill one hour before serving. Store in refrigerator.

Turtle Brownie Sundaes
Makes 18 servings
1¼ c. flour
1¼ c. sugar
½ c. baking cocoa
1 t. baking powder
½ t. salt
4 eggs
¾ c. butter
2 c. toasted pecans, divided
Caramel ice cream topping
Vanilla ice cream

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9” x 13” pan and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl combine flour, sugar, baking cocoa, baking powder and salt. In a small bowl combine eggs and butter. Stir into flour mixture. Fold in pecans. Pour batter into prepared pan. Drizzle about 1/3 c. caramel ice cream topping over top of batter. Bake for 25-30 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Place pan on a wire rack and let cool completely.

Cut brownies into 2” x 3” rectangles. Place each on a plate and top with a scoop of ice cream, some caramel ice cream topping and about 1 T. pecans.

Paprika Stars in Comfort Foods

Paprika is one of those under-appreciated spices. Though often relegated to accenting deviled eggs and potato salad (and helping flamingos at the zoo keep their pink color), it has lots of great uses as a flavoring.

Paprika is made by drying and grinding red peppers. Some versions include the seeds from the pepper, which gives the spice more heat. Flavors range from sweet to very spicy. Specialty grocery stores may also carry smoked paprika, which is made from peppers that are smoked before they are ground. This type of paprika is particularly popular in Spanish cooking.

Although paprika originated in Mexico, it’s perhaps best known for its use in Hungarian cuisine. The powder was first introduced in Hungary as early as the 16th century. Today it’s used in many soups, stews, and meat dishes.

This warming spice is great for winter dishes in part because it’s used in such great comfort foods. Take, for example, Chicken Paprikash. If you want to do something different and delicious serve it over spaetzle, a Hungarian dumpling that’s similar to a noodle.

A couple tips for using paprika: it must be heated to activate its flavor, so don’t expect a burst of spiciness when you use it without cooking it first. Also, make sure you don’t confuse it with cayenne pepper. I once used a teaspoon of cayenne in place of some of the paprika in the paprikash recipe. It’s good to eat warm foods when it’s cold outside, but that was a little over the top.

Chicken Paprikash
Makes 8 servings
3 T. flour
2 lbs. chicken, cubed
1 T. oil
1/2 onion, chopped
1 red pepper, chopped
1 green pepper, chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 stalk celery, chopped
6 mushrooms, sliced
1-1/4 c. chicken stock
2 T. paprika
Pinch cayenne pepper
1 t. salt
1 t. pepper
1 c. sour cream
Cooked egg noodles

Toss chicken in flour. Heat oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Brown chicken in oil, about 4 minutes. Add onion, red pepper, green pepper, garlic, celery and mushrooms and cook until vegetables begin to soften, about 4 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add chicken stock, paprika, pepper, salt and pepper (make sure stock mostly covers chicken; if it doesn’t, add a little water). Bring to a boil, lower heat, cover, and let simmer for one hour or until chicken is very tender.

Add sour cream and heat through (do not boil). Serve over cooked egg noodles.

My Top 5 Cookbooks

Cookbooks make fantastic holiday gifts. Talk about the gift that keeps on giving!

Yet choosing a cookbook from the multitude available in the bookstore can feel like a daunting task. Here are five of the cookbooks I use most often or plan to add to my Christmas list:

First, the staple: the Joy of Cooking by Irma S. Rombauer, Marion Rombauer Becker, and Ethan Becker (Scribner, $35.00). But here’s an interesting twist: instead of buying the newest version, which was released in 2006, visit your nearest thrift store and pick up a copy from the 1970s or earlier. In the older cookbooks you’ll find the occasional gem of a recipe or tip, such as how to trap, butcher and prepare a possum or a beaver. Plus, having used both books, I like the recipes from the older version better.

The baker in your life needs Bernard Clayton’s New Complete Book of Bread by Bernard Clayton (Simon & Schuster Paperbacks, $22.00). This may be the greatest and most frequently used cookbook in my collection. Clayton has an engaging writing style and an incredible knowledge of baking. The book containers recipes for every type of bread you can imagine – yeast breads, sourdough breads, quick breads and muffins, breads from holiday traditions around the world, even a recipe for homemade hamburger buns. Recipes advise you on how to make most loaves by hand, in a mixer, or in a food processor, and offers great advice for the novice and the experienced baker.

Do you know someone who refuses to follow recipes? Do you ever find yourself staring at an avocado and thinking, “What can I do with this thing besides make guacamole?” The Flavor Bible: The Essential Guide to Culinary Creativity, Based on the Wisdom of America’s Most Imaginative Chefs by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg (Little, Brown, $35.00) may be just what you need. Instead of providing recipes, it provides charts for hundreds of meats, fruits, vegetables, herbs, and spices. Each chart tells you what foods pair best with tha ingredient, what season the food is available, its taste (sweet, sour, etc.), and the best cooking technique. That avocado, for example, will pair well with citrus and bitter greens (particularly frisee and Belgium endive), and kosher or sea salt will best bring out the flavor.

Vegetarians will love The New Moosewood Cookbook by Mollie Katzen (Ten Speed Press, $19.99). The Moosewood Cookbook originally came out in 1978, when vegetarianism was fairly rare. It is one of the 10 best-selling cookbooks of all time, according to the New York Times, and is in the James Beard Foundation’s Cookbook Hall of Fame. The cookbook contains delicious recipes like homemade Falafel, Hungarian Mushroom Soup, and Zuccanoes (Stuffed Zucchini). Even meat-eaters will be willing to dig into most of these dishes.

To be honest, most of my favorite recipes don’t come from cookbooks. They come from cooking magazines. For years I’ve subscribed to Taste of Home magazine and its sister publication, Healthy Cooking. Each magazine has a beautiful pictures as well as seasonal ideas for cooking and decorating, healthy living tips, and stories from other cooks around the country. The Taste of Home family also includes a magazine called Simple & Delicious for people who enjoy cooking with convenience foods. Subscription information is available online, or pick up a copy of one of the magazines in the grocery store. When giving a magazine subscription as a gift I enjoy buying the most recent copy and wrapping it with a note telling the person they will get a new gift from me every other month of the year.

Two Families' Secret Holiday Recipes

At the age of 95 my grandma Stella finally “retired” from the role as Thanksgiving dinner cook. Given my near-obsession with cooking, I immediately volunteered to take on the job. The only part that worried me was trying to duplicate one of my grandmother’s most cherished recipes: feather-light Ice Box Rolls that only appeared on the table at holidays.

Everyone in my family had tried to make rolls as good as my grandmother’s. They never succeeded. I knew Thanksgiving wouldn’t be the same without them. I had eaten those rolls every Thanksgiving and Christmas my entire life. Was I really up for the challenge?

Most families have a sacred recipe that makes its way to the table holiday after holiday. Funny enough, in my husband’s family it was also a recipe for rolls. Grandma Lucy’s Rohliky (the Czech word for “rolls”) were the thing everyone looked forward to at Thanksgiving dinner. The recipe comes via Bohemia, now a region of the Czech Republic, the area from which grandma Lucy’s family hailed.

Turns out my first batch of Ice Box Rolls were just as good as my grandmother’s. I’m convinced it’s because she stood next to me and walked me through each step. Each subsequent batch has been almost, but not quite, up to par.

Someday I’ll work up the nerve to make Rohliky and see if my husband can tell the difference. Unfortunately Grandma Lucy passed away in 2005 and isn’t here to help teach me. If you have a family member who makes a world-class recipe, ask if you can help them prepare it this holiday season. When you’re trying to preserve that special tradition there’s nothing like learning from the master.

Ice Box Rolls
Makes about 24 rolls
1 c. mashed potatoes
2/3 c. shortening
2/3 c. sugar
1 c. milk
2 eggs
1 t. salt
1 yeast cake (or one package yeast)
3 c. plus extra flour
2 T. butter, melted

Place shortening, potatoes, and sugar in a large mixing bowl. Scald milk; add and stir well. Let mixture cool to lukewarm, then add eggs and salt. Crumble yeast in your hand and stir into milk mixture. Stir in only enough flour to make mixture the consistency of pancake batter (about 1 cup). Cover with plastic and let rise in the refrigerator until doubled, 1-2 hours.

Stir in enough flour to make a stiff dough. Cover, place bowl back in refrigerator, and let rise overnight (checking once and punching down if necessary to keep dough from flowing out of pan).

Shape as desired. To make Parker House rolls: On a lightly floured board, roll dough to 1/4" thickness. Cut out with a biscuit cutter. Brush both sides of roll in butter. Using a knife, make a small crease in the center, then fold so one side is slightly off-set from the other. Place rolls in ungreased 13” x 9” pan. Cover with a towel and let rise at room temperature for about four hours.

Cook at 375 degrees for 15-20 minutes or until golden brown.

Rohliky
Makes 25 rolls
3 c. flour
1/4 c. sugar
1 t. salt
1/4 c. shortening
1 egg, beaten
1 c. warm milk
1 envelope yeast, dissolved in 2 T. warm water and ¼ t. sugar
For topping:
1 egg, beaten
1 T. water
Poppy seeds or sesame seeds

In a large bowl, combine flour, sugar and salt. Add shortening and mix well. Add egg, milk and yeast and stir to combine. Dough will be a little sticky.

Grease bowl, then return dough. Cover bowl with a towel and put in a warm place. Let rise until doubled. Punch down and let rise again.

Tear off a chunk of dough big enough to fit in your palm. Roll between your hands into a rope as big around as a nickel and about six inches long. Tie in a loose knot. Place on a greased baking sheet; curve ends slightly.

Combine egg and water; brush over top of each roll. Sprinkle with poppy seeds or sesame seeds. Cover with a towel and let rise again. Bake at 375 degrees for 15-20 minutes or until golden brown.