Friday, February 8, 2013

Anyone Feel Like Baking?

It's probably due to this cold weather, but lately I've had an overwhelming urge to bake. Cookies, brownies, quick breads - you name it, if flour is the main ingredient, I want to make it.

I thought I'd share a couple of the best recipes I've developed recently. The first one, for Spiced Sweet Potato Biscuits, is lower on guilt since sweet potatoes are so good for you. If you don't have apple or pear butter feel free to leave it out, but it adds a really nice touch to these biscuits (which can be on the dry side otherwise). If you can resist eating all of them at dinner, toast them and spread them with peanut butter for breakfast the next day.

If you want some sweeter, try these Blueberry-Pineapple Scones. It sounds like a weird combination, but I worked at a restaurant years ago that made them, and they're delicious. I never got their recipe but this one is nearly as good.

Spiced Sweet Potato Biscuits 
Makes16 biscuits
1 c. all-purpose flour
1 c. whole wheat flour
1/3 c. cornmeal
2-1/2 t. baking powder
1/2 t. salt
1/3 c. cold butter, cut into cubes
1 c. mashed sweet potato
1/2 c. milk
2 T. honey 
1 T. apple or pear butter

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

Combine dry ingredients in a large bowl. Cut in butter until mixture is crumbly. Add remaining ingredients and stir just until moistened.

Drop batter 2 inches apart on an ungreased baking sheet to form biscuits. Bake for 14-18 minutes or until lightly browned.

Blueberry-Pineapple Scones 
Makes 12 scones
2 c. all-purpose flour
1 c. rolled oats
1/4 c. packed brown sugar 
2 t. baking powder
3/4 t. baking soda
1/2 t. salt 
1/4 t. cinnamon
1/4 t. nutmeg 
12 T. cold butter, cut into cubes
2/3 c. buttermilk 
1/2 c. fresh or frozen blueberries
1/2 c. finely chopped pineapple 
Granulated sugar for sprinkling

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. 

Combine dry ingredients in a large bowl. Cut in butter until mixture is crumbly. Add buttermilk and stir until just until moistened. Gently fold in blueberries and pineapple.

Turn dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Kneed a few times if necessary so dough holds together. Pat into a 6" x 8" rectangle. Cut into 12 squares. Place squares 2" apart on a lightly greased baking sheet. Sprinkle with granulated sugar.

Bake for 20-22 minutes or until golden brown. Let cool on baking sheet for 15 minutes, then remove to a wire rack. Scones are best eaten the day they're made.

Sunday, October 30, 2011

Crisp Fall Weather Calls for Crunchy Apples

I love fall. I love it so much that people get tired of listening to me talk about it. But what's not to love? The gorgeous trees, the cooler weather, the return of football, and, of course, the incredible food.

There's something magical about the farmers market in the spring, when fresh, local produce takes the place of frozen veggies interspersed with some limited finds from California. But there's also something amazing about fall, when basically everything is ripe and fresh and available in abundance.

Spring means berries, but fall means soft, juicy pears and crisp, flavorful apples. We've been busy making pear butter, applesauce and apple juice to preserve these tree fruits for the winter. I've also been experimenting with incorporating them into baked goods. They add nice flavor and texture. Leaving the skin on means extra fiber and nutrients in the recipe too.

Apple Walnut Waffles have become a favorite around our house. We spread apple butter on them to get an extra punch of sweet flavor.

Apple Streusel Cake is a moist, delicious spice cake with a hint of apple flavor. It’s best served warm. The recipe will make one 8" cake or about 18 cupcakes (like my slimy-looking Halloween treats).

Both recipes call for grated apples. I do the grating with the large holes on a box grater right before I’m ready to add the apples to the recipe. This prevents them from browning and releasing too much juice. Tart apples such as McIntosh and Gravenstein will work best.

Apple Walnut Waffles
1/2 c. all purpose flour
1/2 c. whole wheat flour
1/2 c. finely ground walnuts
1/2 t. baking soda
1/4 t. salt
1/4 t. cinnamon
1/4 t. cardamom
1 c. milk
2 eggs
2 T. butter, melted
1 large unpeeled apple, grated
Butter, maple syrup or apple butter, for serving

In a medium bowl, mix flours, walnuts, baking soda, salt, cinnamon and cardamom. In a separate bowl, combine milk, eggs, butter and apple. Slowly mix dry ingredients into wet ingredients.

Cook batter in a waffle iron according to manufacturer’s directions. Serve with butter, maple syrup and/or apple butter.

Apple-Streusel Cake
Makes 16 servings
Cake:
2 c. all purpose flour
2 t. baking soda
1 t. cinnamon
1/2 t. nutmeg
1/2 t. salt
4 T. butter, softened
1/2 c. brown sugar
2 eggs
1 t. vanilla
1 c. buttermilk
2 apples, grated
Topping:
1/2 c. old-fashioned oats, finely ground
1/3 c. all purpose flour
1/4 c. sugar
1/4 t. cinnamon
4 T. butter, cut into small pieces

In a medium bowl combine flour, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt.

In a mixing bowl, cream butter and brown sugar. Beat in eggs and vanilla. Add dry mixture alternately with buttermilk, beginning and ending with dry ingredients. Fold in apples. Pour into a greased 8” square pan.

In a clean mixing bowl, combine oats, flour sugar and cinnamon. Cut in butter with a fork until mixture resembles course crumbs. Spread topping evenly over cake.

Bake at 350 degrees for 65-70 minutes or until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean. Place on a wire rack to cool.

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Summer Desserts Showcase Berries

This is the best time of year for fruit lovers. Berries are still available in abundance, and stone fruits such as cherries, plums and peaches are coming into season.

There are lots of ways to showcase these sweet treats, but desserts such as crisps and cobblers have always been one of my favorites. There’s something about cooking the fruit and adding a crumbly or cakey topping that really adds to their flavor.

Here’s a quick guide to desserts designed to show off the best of summer fruits:

Cobbler: A blend of fruits topped with sweet biscuits and baked. Peaches are my favorite fruit for cobbler, and Raspberry-Peach Cobbler showcases them beautifully. Lemon is a nice addition to both the biscuits and the fruit. (This recipe is based on a Peach-Blueberry Cobbler from Martha Stewart Living that is absolutely amazing. There's a whole vanilla bean in the biscuits - need I say more?)

Buckle: Coffee cake-like dessert with fruit stirred into the batter before baking. My dad used to make a blueberry buckle for breakfast on Sundays.

Grunt:
An unflattering name for a delicious concept. Cook fruit until it’s soupy, then add sweet dumpling batter and steam until the dumplings are cooked.

Crisp or crumble: Fruit gets a crunchy topping made with flour, brown sugar, butter, and sometimes oats and nuts. Typically these desserts feature a mix of berries, but cherries make a delicious crisp as well (check out my recipe for Cherry-Almond Crisp on The Local Dish). Serve them with vanilla ice cream for a double dose of summer goodness.

My friend Virginia Jasmer, who makes some of the best berry desserts I’ve ever had, often uses cut-up Italian prunes in her crisps. Berry-Plum Crisp provides a list of basic ingredients, but feel free to experiment with different combinations of berries to find your favorite.

Virginia also recommends mixing up a big batch of the topping and freezing it in smaller portions. When you’re in the mood for a quick dessert, you can pull the topping out of the freezer and add it to whatever fruits are on hand.

Frozen fruit will work for all these dishes, so consider freezing fruits now, while they’re at the peak of freshness. Once winter weather sets in and you’re desperate for a taste of summer, you’ll be glad you did.

Raspberry-Peach Cobbler
Makes 8 servings
Filling:
4 c. peaches, peeled and sliced
2 c. raspberries
1 T. lemon juice
1/4 c. sugar
1/4 c. brown sugar
3 T. cornstarch
Zest from 1/2 lemon
Pinch salt
Topping:
2 c. flour
1/3 c. sugar (plus more for sprinkling)
2 t. baking powder
1/2 t. salt
Zest from 1/2 lemon
1/2 c. butter, cut into cubes
1 c. milk

To make filling, place peaches, raspberries and lemon juice in a large bowl. In a separate bowl combine sugars, cornstarch, zest and salt. Toss sugar mixture with fruit. Transfer to a 9” x 13” pan.

To make topping, combine flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and zest in a large bowl. Cut in butter until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Add milk and stir just until moistened.

Preheat oven to 375. Drop biscuit mixture over the fruit by the spoonful until fruit is mostly covered. Sprinkle dough with additional sugar. Bake for 55 to 70 minutes or until topping is golden brown and filling is bubbling. Remove to a wire rack and let cool at least one hour before serving.

Berry-Plum Crisp
Makes about 6 servings
Filling:
1-1/2 c. mixed berries (such as blueberries and blackberries)
1-1/2 c. chopped Italian prunes
1/4 c. sugar
Topping:
3/4 c. flour
1/2 c. brown sugar
1/4 t. salt
6 T. butter, cut into small pieces
1/2 c. chopped walnuts

In a large bowl, toss fruit with sugar. Pour fruit into an oven-safe dish.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a medium bowl, combine flour, brown sugar and salt. Cut in butter with a fork until crumbly. Stir in walnuts.

Sprinkle topping over fruit and bake for 30-35 minutes, or until topping has browned and fruit is bubbly.

Friday, June 17, 2011

Batter Breads Makes Great Loaves Easy

One of the biggest objections I hear to making bread from scratch is the process of kneading. It does take a fair amount of time and strength if done by hand.

Batter breads are one answer to this problem. They’re yeast breads that replace kneading with aggressive mixing. Most recipes require that you beat the dough for just two minutes in a stand mixer, or 200 strokes of a wooden spoon, to active the yeast. That’s better than 10 minutes of kneading on a bread board.

In experimenting with batter breads I’ve found that they tend to rise faster than traditional yeast breads (which is a bonus in my opinion). What I don’t notice is much difference in taste or texture.

Whole Wheat Batter Bread was the first batter bread recipe I received and remains one of my favorites. It’s one of the few bread recipes I have made entirely with whole wheat flour. Be sure and store it in the refrigerator; it will go bad quickly if you don’t.

Cinnamon Raisin Batter Bread includes vanilla, which makes it different from many other yeast bread recipes I’ve tried. I also added oat bran to give it a fiber boost. Toasted and topped with butter or peanut butter, you’ll want to make it and eat it for breakfast every week. The good news – it’s easy enough that you probably can.

Whole Wheat Batter Bread
Makes 1 loaf
1 package dry yeast
1-3/4 c. warm water (110-120 degrees)
3 c. whole wheat flour
2 t. salt
1/4 c. sugar

Dissolve yeast in water; let sit for five minutes or until foamy.

Combine flour, salt and sugar in a large mixing bowl. Add yeast mixture. If using a stand mixer, beat for 2 minutes at medium speed. If mixing by hand, stir 200 strokes with a wooden spoon. Place dough in a greased 8-1/2” x 4-1/2” bread pan. Using a wooden spoon, press dough into corners of the pan and level top. Cover with wax paper and let rise until doubled, about 40 minutes.

Bake at 400 degrees for 15 minutes, then 350 degrees for about 45 minutes or until loaf sounds hollow when tapped. Remove bread from pan and let cool completely. Store loaf in refrigerator.

Cinnamon Raisin Batter Bread
Makes 1 loaf
3/4 c. warm milk (110-120 degrees), divided
2 T. sugar, divided
1 package dry yeast
1 egg
3 T. butter, melted
1/2 t. vanilla
2-1/2 c. bread flour
1 T. oat bran (optional)
1/2 t. salt
1/2 t. cinnamon
1/4 c. raisins

Place 1/4 c. warm milk in a small bowl. Add yeast and 1 t. sugar and stir to dissolve. Let sit for five minutes or until foamy.

Place remaining milk and sugar, egg, butter, and vanilla in a large mixing bowl. Add yeast mixture and stir to combine. Add flour, oat bran (if using), salt and cinnamon. If using a stand mixer, beat for 2 minutes at medium speed. If mixing by hand, stir 200 strokes with a wooden spoon. Add raisins toward the end of the mixing period.

Place dough in a greased 8½” x 4½” bread pan. Using a wooden spoon, press dough into corners of the pan and level top. Cover with wax paper and let rise until doubled, about 40 minutes. Bake at 350 degrees for 35 minutes or until bread sounds hollow when tapped.

Monday, April 18, 2011

Top Five Egg Dishes


In 2008 my mom and I became the proud of owners of two chickens, which we raised in our backyard. We spent many wonderful afternoon watching the birds run around the yard, scratching for worms and generally behaving like goofballs. The eggs were amazing - and plentiful, even in the winter. Sadly, those chickens met their eternal reward in the jaws of a raccoon a year and a half later.

After an extended period of mourning, we're finally back to chicken raising. Two weeks ago my mom got six adorable baby chicks (pictured above). There's an Ameraucana, a Buff Orpington, a Rhode Island Red, a Black Australorp, and two Sex Links (their unfortunate name comes from the fact that boys and girls are different colors when they're born). Even though I'm not living there anymore she's letting me participate as a part-time chicken mama.

At some point, six chickens will mean a lot of eggs. Combine that with the fact that Easter is just around the corner, and our little furry 'n' feathered friends got me thinking about ways to use a lot of eggs. Here are five ideas:

Growing up, our favorite egg dish was Chili Cheese Egg Puff, an amazing recipe from a friend of my mom's. It's a perfect breakfast or brunch item and is good served hot or room temperature. To make a full meal out of it, serve it with freshly cooked black beans, salsa and sour cream.

Toto Vo was one of my cooking buddies in Portland. He introduced me to Robert Rodriguez's Breakfast Tacos. Rodriguez directed such epic movies as Sin City and From Dusk till Dawn. One of the "extras" on all his DVDs is a 10-minute cooking lesson. They're hilarious, and he's a really good cook. The cooking school on the Sin City DVD gives instructions for Breakfast Tacos, which are good any time of day. You can check it out on YouTube.

Spanish Tortilla is another great way to use eggs. Quite different from tortilla wraps, this dish consists of fried potatoes and onions cooked with beaten eggs. Super simple and surprisingly delicious. The first time I enjoyed this dish it was prepared by Alex Province, Christopher's brother-in-law, who was previously introduced to you as the Paella Master. My recipe, which I've used several times since, is below. The trickiest thing about it is flipping the tortilla when it's time to cook the other side. It may take you a couple times to get the hang out it. Flipping the tortilla over the sink will catch any egg that might run out of the pan. If you really can't get the hang of it, make your tortilla in a cast iron pan and finish it in the oven.

My newest egg concoction is Double Mustard Strata, which I made for our annual Spring Brunch this year. It has prepared mustard and mustard greens (thus the name), but you could substitute other types of greens (such as spinach) in the recipes. See below for the recipe.

Finally, forget about all these savory dishes. If you really want to impress people, check out Martha Stewart's recipe for Chocolate Pavlova. I don't usually care for meringue, and I'd never liked pavlova - until I tried this one. It will knock your socks off, especially if you're a chocolate lover. Even my sister, who doesn't have much of a sweet tooth, loves this dessert.

Happy egg dying, cooking and hunting! I'm looking forward to the time several months from now when we're hunting freshly laid chicken eggs in the backyard.


Double Mustard Strata

Makes 12 servings
4 slices day-old white bread, cubed
4 slices day-old wheat or rye bread, cubed
1 c. Gruyere cheese, grated, divided
1/2 onion, chopped
2 c. chopped mustard greens
7 eggs
3 c. milk
3 t. Dijon mustard
1 t. salt

Layer bread in bottom of a 9" x 13" dish. Layer with 3/4 c. cheese, onion, greens, and remaining cheese.

In a separate bowl, combine eggs, milk, mustard and salt. Pour over bread mixture. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Remove from refrigerator 30 minutes before baking. Bake at 325 degrees for 45 minutes or until browned and bubbly. If desired, turn oven to broil and cook until cheese is lightly browned, about 5 minutes.

Spanish Tortilla

Makes 6 servings
1 pound potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
1 onion, thinly sliced
2 T. olive oil
4 eggs

Heat oil in a non-stick or well seasoned cast iron pan over low heat. Add potatoes and onions and cook, stirring frequently, until potatoes are tender, 10-15 minutes.

In the meantime, break eggs into a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Pour eggs over potato mixture. Cook until eggs are mostly set, about 10 minutes.

Place a plate on top of pan and carefully flip tortilla over. Slide tortilla back into pan. Place pan back on heat and cook until egg is set, 2-3 minutes. Place on a clean plate and cut into wedges.

Friday, April 15, 2011

Explore the Amazing World of Indian Food

My first introduction to Indian food came while I was living in England. “Curry houses,” as the British call them, can be found all over the United Kingdom.

India was a British colony for roughly a century. As a result, many Indians immigrated to the United Kingdom. Today Indian restaurants are as common in Britain as Mexican restaurants in western America.

I knew good Indian food places would be few and far between when I got back home, so I learned as much as I could about Indian cooking while living overseas. It continues to be one of my favorite cuisines to make at home. Indian food is delicious, different, and relatively inexpensive. After you purchase your cut of meat, the remaining ingredients (such as spices, lentils, yogurt, and vegetables like potatoes, onions and tomatoes) are quite affordable.

Understanding Indian food is largely about understanding the spices involved in cooking it. Garam masala and curry powder are among the most common ingredients in Indian recipes. Both are spice blends whose contents vary by region. Black pepper, cumin, coriander (cilantro seeds), and cinnamon are common ingredients in garam masala. Curry powder almost always features turmeric, a bright yellow spice that will stain your clothes and kitchen towels.

Recipes frequently call for whole (not ground) spices as well. Cumin and coriander seeds are commonly used. So is whole cardamom in its green or black pods. The crunchy yellow or black seeds that have a starring role in many recipes are mustard seeds. In some cases the recipe may direct you to lightly fry the seeds in oil first to bring out their taste and aroma.

Saffron, the world’s most expensive spice, makes an appearance in many Indian dishes. Saffron comes from a particular breed of crocus and is native to southeast Asia. It imparts a unique, almost bitter flavor.

A good starting point for Indian food newbies is Chicken Korma. The creamy dish is easy to make and has a mild flavor. The recipe calls for Greek-style yogurt, which you can easily make yourself if you can’t find it at the store. Line a strainer with cheesecloth or a clean linen napkin. Place the strainer in a small bowl. Add the plain yogurt, then cover it and set the strainer and bowl in the refrigerator for a few hours. Some of the moisture will drain off, leaving you with a thicker yogurt that will work well in this dish.

Pilau Rice, an Indian-style rice pilaf, will add a special touch to many of your Indian food creations. You can substitute white or basmati rice as a side dish.

If this meal piques your interest, keep exploring! There is a wide world of tandoori, rogan josh, tikka masala, naan, aloo gobi, and other dishes that awaits you.

Chicken Korma
Makes 4 servings
3 chicken breasts, cut into cubes
1 T. butter
1/2 onion, finely chopped
4 t. garlic, minced
2 t. garam masala
1/4 c. cream
1/4 c. milk
1/4 c. plain Greek-style yogurt
2 T. ground almonds
4-5 saffron strands
Cooked rice

In a large skillet over medium heat, brown chicken in butter. Add onion and sauté until onion begins to soften. Add garlic and garam masala and cook for 1 minute, stirring often. Add cream, milk, yogurt and almonds. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add saffron near the end of cooking time. Serve over rice.

Pilau Rice

Makes 4 servings
2-1/2 c. chicken stock
4-5 saffron strands
2 T. butter
1/2 onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 cinnamon stick
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
1-1/4 c. jasmine rice

Heat chicken stock in a small saucepan. Add saffron and set aside.

Melt butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and cook until soft. Add garlic and spices and cook for 2 minutes, stirring often.

Add rice and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or until rice grains are thoroughly coated in butter. Add hot stock and bring to a boil. Stir once, cover, and turn heat to low. Cook for 15 minutes or until rice is tender. Remove cinnamon stick and bay leaves before serving.

Friday, March 25, 2011

Herb Garden Spreads Culinary Joy

Every time we’ve had a sunny day recently I’ve started dreaming about getting into my yard and planting vegetables. Then it rains, and my enthusiasm fizzles a little.

If spring’s unpredictable weather has you in a funk, start your gardening season by planting a container herb garden. Fresh herbs will add a delicious dimension to your cooking. They bring lots of flavor to dishes without adding salt. Raising your own herb patch is also a great way to save money. Herbs can be expensive this time of year, and you often have to buy them in large bunches even if you only need a couple teaspoons.

Many herbs grow well in pots or other containers. You can grow some warm weather herbs, like basil and cilantro, in the house if you have a sunny window. Herbs are beautiful mixed into a flower bed if you happen to have one. Some of them, like chives and oregano, produce flowers once the weather starts to warm up.

Parsley, thyme, oregano, chives, sage and rosemary are fairly hardy and can survive most Oregon winters. If you want to grow mint I would definitely advise growing it in a pot. Mint grows on runners and can quickly take over the yard. Most garden stores sell herb starts that you can take home, plunk in a pot, and start harvesting from (sparingly) right away. Make sure the pot and soil have good drainage, and water your plants regularly.

Lamb Stew has plenty of yummy herbs and is a great way to use a meat that’s often associated with spring. It tastes best after the flavors have time to blend, so I usually make it the day before I want to serve it. If you’re looking for something different for Easter dinner, Lamb Stew is a great choice.

Lemon-Herb Chicken is fast and easy to make. You can use whatever herbs you have on hand and it will still taste delicious.

Dried herbs work in these recipes too. Use one-third the amount of fresh herbs called for, as dried herbs have a stronger flavor. (For example, if a recipe calls for 1 tablespoon of fresh herbs, substitute 1 teaspoon of dried herbs.)

However, I’d suggest using fresh herbs whenever possible. It’s hard enough to find fresh food this time of year. Herbs are an easy way to capture the taste of spring without much effort or cost.

Lamb Stew
Makes 4 servings
1-1/2 lbs. lamb, cut into cubes
2 T. butter, divided
3 onions, quartered
3 carrots, thickly sliced
4 small red potatoes, quartered
2 c. beef stock
1/2 t. salt
1/4 t. pepper
1 T. flour
2 t. parsley, chopped
2 t. chives, chopped
1 t. thyme, chopped

Melt 1 T. butter in a large oven-proof kettle with lid. Saute meat over medium heat until brown; remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Saute carrots and onions in drippings until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add lamb, potatoes, stock, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil. Remove from stove, cover and place in oven. Bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour.

Remove meat and vegetables with a slotted spoon; set aside. Pour pan juices into a separate bowl. Add remaining 1 T. butter to pan and melt over medium heat. Add flour and stir until smooth. Whisk in pan juices. Bring to a boil and stir until thickened. Return meat and vegetables to pan. Add herbs and heat through.

Lemon-Herb Chicken with Angel Hair
Makes 2 servings
1/4 lb. angel hair pasta
1 T. butter
2 chicken breasts, cut into cubes
2 T. lemon juice
1 T. olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 T. minced mixed herbs (such as oregano, sage, thyme and rosemary)
1/4 t. pepper
1/4 c. parmesan cheese

Cook pasta according to package directions.

In the meantime, heat butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add chicken and cook until no longer pink. Add lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, herbs, and pepper. Cook, stirring often, for 1-2 minutes. Serve chicken over cooked pasta; sprinkle with parmesan cheese.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Cacao Tree Inspires Chocolate Desserts


Christopher and I recently traveled to Kauai, the western-most Hawaiian island. We enjoyed some good food on our trip, including Kalua pork nachos, fresh pineapple, and a pie made with macadamia nut ice cream. However, my best foodie discovery turned out to be something I saw rather than something I ate.

One of our outings was a visit to the McBryde Garden, a tropical botanical garden. They have a variety of culinary plants including allspice and pepper trees, vanilla bean vines, ginger and turmeric roots, and – best of all – Theobroma cacao, the tree that produces chocolate.

Chocolate starts its life in a purple oblong pod. The pods produce seeds that are dried, roasted, and broken open to reveal the cocoa nibs, the real source of chocolate. The nibs are ground to produce cocoa butter and a dark brown liquid called chocolate liquor. The liquor can be left as-is and sold as unsweetened baking chocolate. Manufacturers add sugar and cocoa butter to produce bittersweet and semi-sweet chocolate. The addition of milk (either powdered or condensed) produces milk chocolate. Cocoa butter without the liquor makes white chocolate. Liquor with most of the fat and liquid removed is ground into baking cocoa.

Winter comes even in Kauai, so most of the culinary plants weren’t producing anything. The cacao tree, on the other hand, had dozens of purple pods hanging from it. That beautiful tree was the inspiration for this column, and I’m delighted to share a couple of my favorite chocolate recipes with you.

The first is Chocolate-Glazed Chocolate Tart. This recipe from Gourmet Magazine is the best chocolate dessert I've had in a long time. Thanks to my friend Shannon for bringing it to a party and passing on the recipe. The tart is super rich, so plan to cut it into very small slices.

You won’t believe something as amazing as Honey-Almond Truffles can have only three ingredients. A friend in Portland brought these to a Christmas party one year and I immediately asked for the recipe.

Another of my favorite chocolate desserts is Turtle Brownie Sundaes. It’s hard to beat chewy brownies topped with vanilla ice cream, caramel ice cream topping and pecans. After eating a macadamia nut turtle on Kauai I’m convinced you could substitute macadamia nuts for the pecans in this recipe with delicious – and tropical – results.

Honey-Almond Truffles
1 c. roasted unsalted almonds
¼ c. honey
1 c. bittersweet chocolate

Finely grind almonds. Pour into a bowl; mix in honey to make a paste (if honey is too thick, warm slightly to liquefy). Cover bowl and chill for one hour.

Shape mixture into balls no more than 1” in diameter. Set on a baking sheet lined with wax paper and chill in freezer for 30 minutes.

Melt chocolate in double boiler or microwave. Dip balls in chocolate until completely coated. Drizzle any remaining chocolate decoratively over the top. Chill one hour before serving. Store in refrigerator.

Turtle Brownie Sundaes
Makes 18 servings
1¼ c. flour
1¼ c. sugar
½ c. baking cocoa
1 t. baking powder
½ t. salt
4 eggs
¾ c. butter
2 c. toasted pecans, divided
Caramel ice cream topping
Vanilla ice cream

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9” x 13” pan and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl combine flour, sugar, baking cocoa, baking powder and salt. In a small bowl combine eggs and butter. Stir into flour mixture. Fold in pecans. Pour batter into prepared pan. Drizzle about 1/3 c. caramel ice cream topping over top of batter. Bake for 25-30 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Place pan on a wire rack and let cool completely.

Cut brownies into 2” x 3” rectangles. Place each on a plate and top with a scoop of ice cream, some caramel ice cream topping and about 1 T. pecans.

Friday, January 21, 2011

Paprika Stars in Comfort Foods

Paprika is one of those under-appreciated spices. Though often relegated to accenting deviled eggs and potato salad (and helping flamingos at the zoo keep their pink color), it has lots of great uses as a flavoring.

Paprika is made by drying and grinding red peppers. Some versions include the seeds from the pepper, which gives the spice more heat. Flavors range from sweet to very spicy. Specialty grocery stores may also carry smoked paprika, which is made from peppers that are smoked before they are ground. This type of paprika is particularly popular in Spanish cooking.

Although paprika originated in Mexico, it’s perhaps best known for its use in Hungarian cuisine. The powder was first introduced in Hungary as early as the 16th century. Today it’s used in many soups, stews, and meat dishes.

This warming spice is great for winter dishes in part because it’s used in such great comfort foods. Take, for example, Chicken Paprikash. If you want to do something different and delicious serve it over spaetzle, a Hungarian dumpling that’s similar to a noodle.

A couple tips for using paprika: it must be heated to activate its flavor, so don’t expect a burst of spiciness when you use it without cooking it first. Also, make sure you don’t confuse it with cayenne pepper. I once used a teaspoon of cayenne in place of some of the paprika in the paprikash recipe. It’s good to eat warm foods when it’s cold outside, but that was a little over the top.

Chicken Paprikash
Makes 8 servings
3 T. flour
2 lbs. chicken, cubed
1 T. oil
1/2 onion, chopped
1 red pepper, chopped
1 green pepper, chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 stalk celery, chopped
6 mushrooms, sliced
1-1/4 c. chicken stock
2 T. paprika
Pinch cayenne pepper
1 t. salt
1 t. pepper
1 c. sour cream
Cooked egg noodles

Toss chicken in flour. Heat oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Brown chicken in oil, about 4 minutes. Add onion, red pepper, green pepper, garlic, celery and mushrooms and cook until vegetables begin to soften, about 4 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add chicken stock, paprika, pepper, salt and pepper (make sure stock mostly covers chicken; if it doesn’t, add a little water). Bring to a boil, lower heat, cover, and let simmer for one hour or until chicken is very tender.

Add sour cream and heat through (do not boil). Serve over cooked egg noodles.

Friday, December 17, 2010

My Top 5 Cookbooks

Cookbooks make fantastic holiday gifts. Talk about the gift that keeps on giving!

Yet choosing a cookbook from the multitude available in the bookstore can feel like a daunting task. Here are five of the cookbooks I use most often or plan to add to my Christmas list:

First, the staple: the Joy of Cooking by Irma S. Rombauer, Marion Rombauer Becker, and Ethan Becker (Scribner, $35.00). But here’s an interesting twist: instead of buying the newest version, which was released in 2006, visit your nearest thrift store and pick up a copy from the 1970s or earlier. In the older cookbooks you’ll find the occasional gem of a recipe or tip, such as how to trap, butcher and prepare a possum or a beaver. Plus, having used both books, I like the recipes from the older version better.

The baker in your life needs Bernard Clayton’s New Complete Book of Bread by Bernard Clayton (Simon & Schuster Paperbacks, $22.00). This may be the greatest and most frequently used cookbook in my collection. Clayton has an engaging writing style and an incredible knowledge of baking. The book containers recipes for every type of bread you can imagine – yeast breads, sourdough breads, quick breads and muffins, breads from holiday traditions around the world, even a recipe for homemade hamburger buns. Recipes advise you on how to make most loaves by hand, in a mixer, or in a food processor, and offers great advice for the novice and the experienced baker.

Do you know someone who refuses to follow recipes? Do you ever find yourself staring at an avocado and thinking, “What can I do with this thing besides make guacamole?” The Flavor Bible: The Essential Guide to Culinary Creativity, Based on the Wisdom of America’s Most Imaginative Chefs by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg (Little, Brown, $35.00) may be just what you need. Instead of providing recipes, it provides charts for hundreds of meats, fruits, vegetables, herbs, and spices. Each chart tells you what foods pair best with tha ingredient, what season the food is available, its taste (sweet, sour, etc.), and the best cooking technique. That avocado, for example, will pair well with citrus and bitter greens (particularly frisee and Belgium endive), and kosher or sea salt will best bring out the flavor.

Vegetarians will love The New Moosewood Cookbook by Mollie Katzen (Ten Speed Press, $19.99). The Moosewood Cookbook originally came out in 1978, when vegetarianism was fairly rare. It is one of the 10 best-selling cookbooks of all time, according to the New York Times, and is in the James Beard Foundation’s Cookbook Hall of Fame. The cookbook contains delicious recipes like homemade Falafel, Hungarian Mushroom Soup, and Zuccanoes (Stuffed Zucchini). Even meat-eaters will be willing to dig into most of these dishes.

To be honest, most of my favorite recipes don’t come from cookbooks. They come from cooking magazines. For years I’ve subscribed to Taste of Home magazine and its sister publication, Healthy Cooking. Each magazine has a beautiful pictures as well as seasonal ideas for cooking and decorating, healthy living tips, and stories from other cooks around the country. The Taste of Home family also includes a magazine called Simple & Delicious for people who enjoy cooking with convenience foods. Subscription information is available online, or pick up a copy of one of the magazines in the grocery store. When giving a magazine subscription as a gift I enjoy buying the most recent copy and wrapping it with a note telling the person they will get a new gift from me every other month of the year.

Monday, November 29, 2010

Two Families' Secret Holiday Recipes

At the age of 95 my grandma Stella finally “retired” from the role as Thanksgiving dinner cook. Given my near-obsession with cooking, I immediately volunteered to take on the job. The only part that worried me was trying to duplicate one of my grandmother’s most cherished recipes: feather-light Ice Box Rolls that only appeared on the table at holidays.

Everyone in my family had tried to make rolls as good as my grandmother’s. They never succeeded. I knew Thanksgiving wouldn’t be the same without them. I had eaten those rolls every Thanksgiving and Christmas my entire life. Was I really up for the challenge?

Most families have a sacred recipe that makes its way to the table holiday after holiday. Funny enough, in my husband’s family it was also a recipe for rolls. Grandma Lucy’s Rohliky (the Czech word for “rolls”) were the thing everyone looked forward to at Thanksgiving dinner. The recipe comes via Bohemia, now a region of the Czech Republic, the area from which grandma Lucy’s family hailed.

Turns out my first batch of Ice Box Rolls were just as good as my grandmother’s. I’m convinced it’s because she stood next to me and walked me through each step. Each subsequent batch has been almost, but not quite, up to par.

Someday I’ll work up the nerve to make Rohliky and see if my husband can tell the difference. Unfortunately Grandma Lucy passed away in 2005 and isn’t here to help teach me. If you have a family member who makes a world-class recipe, ask if you can help them prepare it this holiday season. When you’re trying to preserve that special tradition there’s nothing like learning from the master.

Ice Box Rolls
Makes about 24 rolls
1 c. mashed potatoes
2/3 c. shortening
2/3 c. sugar
1 c. milk
2 eggs
1 t. salt
1 yeast cake (or one package yeast)
3 c. plus extra flour
2 T. butter, melted

Place shortening, potatoes, and sugar in a large mixing bowl. Scald milk; add and stir well. Let mixture cool to lukewarm, then add eggs and salt. Crumble yeast in your hand and stir into milk mixture. Stir in only enough flour to make mixture the consistency of pancake batter (about 1 cup). Cover with plastic and let rise in the refrigerator until doubled, 1-2 hours.

Stir in enough flour to make a stiff dough. Cover, place bowl back in refrigerator, and let rise overnight (checking once and punching down if necessary to keep dough from flowing out of pan).

Shape as desired. To make Parker House rolls: On a lightly floured board, roll dough to 1/4" thickness. Cut out with a biscuit cutter. Brush both sides of roll in butter. Using a knife, make a small crease in the center, then fold so one side is slightly off-set from the other. Place rolls in ungreased 13” x 9” pan. Cover with a towel and let rise at room temperature for about four hours.

Cook at 375 degrees for 15-20 minutes or until golden brown.

Rohliky
Makes 25 rolls
3 c. flour
1/4 c. sugar
1 t. salt
1/4 c. shortening
1 egg, beaten
1 c. warm milk
1 envelope yeast, dissolved in 2 T. warm water and ¼ t. sugar
For topping:
1 egg, beaten
1 T. water
Poppy seeds or sesame seeds

In a large bowl, combine flour, sugar and salt. Add shortening and mix well. Add egg, milk and yeast and stir to combine. Dough will be a little sticky.

Grease bowl, then return dough. Cover bowl with a towel and put in a warm place. Let rise until doubled. Punch down and let rise again.

Tear off a chunk of dough big enough to fit in your palm. Roll between your hands into a rope as big around as a nickel and about six inches long. Tie in a loose knot. Place on a greased baking sheet; curve ends slightly.

Combine egg and water; brush over top of each roll. Sprinkle with poppy seeds or sesame seeds. Cover with a towel and let rise again. Bake at 375 degrees for 15-20 minutes or until golden brown.

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

A Lesson in Cooking Oils

I try to keep up on current health trends and consider myself relatively knowledgeable about food. So when a lengthy article claiming that canola oil was bad for you appeared on my Twitter feed I was shocked. Canola oil was supposed to be the best thing since sliced bread, the heart-healthy oil. And now I hear it can cause diseases?

The next blow came when my sister informed me olive oil has carcinogenic properties when you cook it. All the cooks I admire use olive oil. Lots of it, in some cases. Could it really be true?

In my despair I called my friend Yaakov Levine. Yaakov is a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner with offices in Creswell and Eugene and a columnist for the Creswell Chronicle (see copies of his past columns here). Surely he could offer an answer to my oil dilemma.

He did, although he didn’t have quite the answers I was looking for. Canola oil is, in fact, not the healthy alternative it’s touted to be. “Some people call [canola oil] ‘Franken-oil’,” he said. It’s made from genetically modified seeds and must be highly processed before it goes to market, which strips out most of the benefits. (Here is a copy of the original article on NaturalNews.com that tipped me off about canola oil).

And “The World’s Healthiest Foods” by George Mateljan, my favorite food reference book, states that heating olive oil at high temperatures can cause the “formation of unwanted aromatic substances . . . in the oil that can increase our risk of chronic health problems including cancer.”

So what’s a cook to do? “We all need fat in our diet,” Yaakov was quick to point out. Fat gives our cells structure and our bodies energy. There are essential fats that we need that our bodies can’t produce, so we need to find them elsewhere.

The key is choosing the right fat. Yaakov is a proponent of coconut oil. It’s easy to digest, provides plenty of energy, and has a nice flavor. Added bonus in the winter – it has anti-bacterial properties that help prevent colds and flus. Try it when cooking vegetables, in a smoothie, or in Gooey Balls, a dessert recipe provided by Yaakov.

Butter and lard are Yaakov’s other fats of choice. Skip the brick of lard at the grocery store, which is likely to have trans fats. Visit your local butcher instead and see if he or she has a source for something produced locally.
High-oleic sunflower oil is an option in recipes where you don’t want the taste of the oil to be overpowering – for example, Red Onion Salad Dressing, a staple around my house. (A high-oleic oil is one that is high in monounsaturated acid, a “good” fat.) High-oleic safflower oil can be used on the rare occasion when you must deep-fry something.

Eaten at room temperature, or even used for light frying, olive oil is still a good choice.

“What leads me down the road toward more traditional fats is that we have problems with diseases now that we didn’t use to have,” Yaakov says. 100 years ago “they weren’t eating so many plant and seed fats like we are now.” Heart disease is now the leading cause of death for Americans, and poor diet is part of the reason for that.

Whatever type of oil you use, store it in a dark colored bottle and out of direct light. Oil turns rancid quite easily.

All fats should still be used sparingly. Here’s one last tip on lowering your consumption of heated oils: the next time a recipe directs you to brown meat in oil, use a little bit of high-quality stock instead. It will add extra flavor and keep the meat from sticking to the pan. Freeze stock in ice cube trays and store the cubes in plastic bags so you always have some handy.

Gooey Balls
1 c. coconut oil
2 c. shredded coconut
1 c. sesame seeds
6 dates, finely chopped
Pinch high mineral sea salt
Vanilla or orange extract to taste

Melt coconut oil gently (it melts at 76 degrees). Stir in remaining ingredients. Form into balls, place on a baking sheet, and chill.
(Note: For a less sweet option, replace the dates with a grated apple and a drizzle of lemon juice.)

Red Onion Salad Dressing
1/2 c. champagne or apple cider vinegar
1/4 red onion
2 T. honey
1 t. Dijon mustard
1 t. salt
1/2 c. high-oleic sunflower oil

Place vinegar, onion, honey, mustard and salt in a blender. Blend until well combined. With blender on, add oil in a slow, steady stream until well combined.

Monday, November 8, 2010

Top Five Winter Squash Recipes

Forgive me for having a total foodie moment, but I had the most amazing squash experience the other day.

I should start by saying that I don't really like squash. I've come to enjoy butternut in some things, and I'll eat a slice of pumpkin pie if it has enough whipped cream on it. But most of the time, everything about it grosses me out.

But since I make pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving every year, I wanted to try cooking and freezing a Hubbard squash. My cousin always used flesh from the blue gourd in pies and got rave results.

I picked up a squash at the farmers' market one Saturday. I quartered it, scooped out the seeds (which were excellent roasted in the oven with some butter, seasoning salt and minced garlic, by the way, but that's another story), and roasted it in the oven. When it finally came out of the oven the flesh was dark, wrinkly and stringy-looking. It didn't exactly scream "perfect holiday dessert." As soon as it cooled I scooped the soft flesh into a bowl and let it chill in the fridge for a couple days while I tried to figure out what to do with it.

Eventually inspiration struck. I could put the squash through a food mill. That would catch the stringy, icky parts and keep them separate from the squash I could actually use.

I set to work with my mom's old food mill, a cone-shaped strainer with a wooden paddle. Soon bright orange squash starting coming out the tiny holes in the mill. I scraped it down into the bowl before setting to work on the next chunk of squash.

All the squash, even the parts that looked inedible, were smooth as custard by the time I was done. The more I handled the squash with my (very clean) hands, the more I marveled at the incredible texture of it. I'd never seen squash so smooth - except in those cans of pumpkin pie filling. Who know you could produce something so lovely at home?

Alas, I ran out of squash way too quickly. I scooped two-cup portions into freezer bags and packed them away. My squash weighed less than 10 pounds and yielded nearly six cups of can-perfect pie filling.

I have yet to actually try the squash, but I'm hoping it will continue to change my opinion about this vitamin-packed veggie. After Thanksgiving I'll post an update on how I do!

Which brings me to... a squash skeptic's five favorite ways to use winter squash:

1) Pumpkin Pie: This recipe from Martha Stewart Living includes chipotle chili powder, which makes an already-amazing pie recipe even better.

2) Apple-Cheddar-Squash Soup: from The Food Network. Sure, it has squash, but it also has good things too, like apples and cheese and potatoes. Smoked gouda is good in place of the cheddar too.

3) Winter Squash Risotto with Prosciutto, Hazelnuts and Sage: Originally from the Oregonian's FOODday section, one of the my favorite recipe resources. Don't scrimp on the hazelnuts. They really add a lot.

4) & 5) I admit I haven't tried these two recipes, but they come highly recommended by my friend who works at FOOD for Lane County. I'm sure they're good... if you like eating squash. Me, I may stick with mostly playing with it.

Butternut Squash and Ginger Soup
1 butternut squash
2 T. butter
1 onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, sliced
2 T. fresh ginger root, minced
6 c. water or stock
2 t. salt
Apple cider vinegar
Crème fraîche or sour cream
Toasted hazelnuts, chopped
Cut squash in half lengthwise and place on a rimmed baking sheet, cut side down, with water in the pan. Cook at 375 degrees for 45 minutes or until the squash is soft. Scoop out the seeds and set aside (seeds can be roasted later if desired). Scoop out the flesh and place in a bowl.

Heat butter in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger root and cook until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add the cooked squash, water or stock, and salt; bring to a simmer. Cook until the squash is tender enough to smash with a spoon, about 30 minutes.

Puree the soup with an immersion or upright blender. Ladle the soup through a strainer into a clean soup pot, discarding any bits of squash or ginger left behind.
Heat the soup through once more and season to taste, adding salt first and then the vinegar. Add the vinegar one-half teaspoon at a time; it will take a little more than 1 tablespoon.

To serve, ladle the soup into wide bowls and spoon 1 to 2 tablespoons of crème fraîche onto each. Scatter a few toasted hazelnuts over the soup and serve immediately.

Stuffed Acorn Squash
1 acorn squash
2 c. chopped apples
1 c. roasted walnuts
1 T. maple syrup
2 T. melted butter
½ t. salt
Slice squash in half lengthwise, remove seeds, and place face down on a rimmed baking sheet. Cook at 375 degrees until squash is just tender, 25-40 minutes.
Combine remaining ingredients. Scoop filling into the center cavity and bake squash face up for another 10-15 minutes or until tender.

Monday, October 18, 2010

Tea Parties a Great Way to Entertain

In 2004 I took a temporary work assignment in England. I’d always imagined the British drinking a lot of tea, and it didn’t take me long to figure out why. I worked in an unheated warehouse throughout the winter, and guzzling hot beverages was about the only way of keeping warm.

Upon my return to the United States, with its heated buildings and obsession with fancy coffee drinks, my tea addiction fell out of habit. But the experience piqued my interest in tea and tea parties, and I still find this to be a terrific party theme.

If you want to host your own tea party, do what you can to personalize it to your guests’ interests. A teddy bear or Mad Hatter theme is fun for kids, while a garden or apron party may be better for adults.

Pay close attention to how you brew your tea. Black tea leaves should be placed in the cup or pot before boiling water is poured over the top. Green teas and white teas shouldn’t be brewed in boiling water or they can develop a bitter taste. Remove the water from its heat source before it reaches boiling, or let it cool a little before you steep the leaves. No matter what kind of tea you use, loose tea will provide more flavor than bagged tea, since the water can swirl all the way around the leaves.

Many traditional teas offer both savory and sweet snacks. Although they’re certainly not required, scones will make your guests think of jolly old England.

St. Patrick’s Day Scones are fairly traditional, although the dried fruit is an unusual touch. Leave the dried fruit out if you want to offer your guests jam and whipped cream for their scones, or substitute raisins or currants. Cranberry-Cornmeal Scones, on the other hand, are just different enough to leave your friends talking.

St. Patrick’s Day Scones
Makes 9 servings
2 c. flour
1/2 c. sugar
2 t. baking powder
1/4 t. salt
One pinch cinnamon
1/2 c. butter, cut into cubes
1/2 c. plus 1 T. milk, divided
2 eggs, divided
1/3 c. dried, chopped mixed fruit

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl, combine flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and cinnamon. Cut in butter with a fork or your fingers until mixture is crumbly. Add 1/2 c. milk and 1 egg and stir just until ingredients are combined. Add dried fruit and stir gently to combine.

Drop dough by 1/3 cup at a time onto ungreased baking sheet. Beat together remaining 1 T. milk and egg; brush over top of each scone. Bake for 20 minutes or until lightly brown. Cool on a wire rack.

Cranberry-Cornmeal Scones
Makes 8 servings
1-1/2 c. cornmeal
3/4 c. flour
1/4 c. sugar
3/4 t. baking powder
1/4 t. salt
1/4 c. butter, cut into cubes
1/2 c. milk
1/3 c. dried cranberries

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Grease a baking sheet; set aside.

Combine dry ingredients in a large bowl. Cut in butter with a fork or your fingers until mixture is crumbly. Add milk and stir just until ingredients are combined.

Turn onto a floured cutting board. Sprinkle with cranberries and knead to combine. Transfer to baking sheet and shape into a circle approximately 7 inches in diameter. Cut into eight wedges and separate, leaving about one inch between wedges. Bake for 12-15 minutes or until scones spring back lightly when touched. Cool on a wire rack.

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Slow Cooker Makes Dinner a Breeze

Fall is in the air. I hate to admit it, but I can feel it every morning when I open the front door. While I’m always sad to think about the lazy days of summer coming to an end, I do look forward to the warm, hearty meals that make their way back into my regular rotation.

With the kids going back to school and regular meetings starting back up, it can be tough to get dinner on the table fast. Once a week I usually put something in the slow cooker. It takes a little advanced planning the night before or in the morning, but it’s worth it to have a meal ready when I get home from work or on a busy weekend.

Slow cookers have been around since the 1960s. They use a heating element in the bottom to cook foods slowly and safely. They’re handy in the summer and early fall, since they won’t heat up the kitchen like the oven. They also use less energy than the oven, which is a plus for the budget conscious. Slow cookers can be used for anything from soups and stews to desserts such as cobblers and bread pudding.

Tough cuts of meat are great for slow cookers because they respond well to slow, lower temperature cooking. The next time you find pot roast on sale at the grocery store, buy it, cut it into cubes, and make Burgundy Beef. This was my mother’s go-to slow cooker recipe. The combination of soup and wine cooks into a rich gravy that’s delicious over brown rice or egg noodles.

Slow Cooker Ribs is another one of my go-to recipes. They’re cooked with a homemade barbeque sauce and a heap of onions, which get so soft they’ll melt in your mouth.

Most slow cooker recipes, including Bugundy Beef, do best if they’re cooked no longer than five or six hours. Left too long, the meat gets dry and the sauce overcooks. These recipes are best reserved for weekends or when you can run home on your lunch break. Slow Cooker Ribs, on the other hand, can be cooked for up to nine hours.

Burgundy Beef
Makes 8 servings
2-3 lbs. beef stew meat
2-3 t. oil
1 envelope dry onion soup mix
1 can cream of mushroom soup
1 can cream of celery soup
1 c. red wine
Cooked brown rice or egg noodles

Heat oil in a large skillet. Brown stew meat on all sides. Transfer to slow cooker.

Combine soup mix, soups, and wine. Fill one soup can with water; add to mixture. Stir well to combine, then pour over beef. Cook on low setting for 5-6 hours. Serve over cooked brown rice or egg noodles.

Slow Cooker Ribs
Makes 4 servings
1 T. oil
2 lbs. country style pork ribs
2 onions, sliced
1 c. ketchup
1 c. water
1/4 c. packed brown sugar
1/4 c. cider vinegar
2 T. Worcestershire sauce
2 t. ground mustard
1 t. salt
1 t. paprika

Heat oil in a large skillet. Brown ribs on all sides. Place half the ribs in slow cooker. Top with half the onions. Repeat layers. Combine remaining ingredients; pour over ribs. Cook on low setting for 8-9 hours.

Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Blackberries Make Show-Stopping Desserts

Rubus armeniacus may be the bane of gardeners everywhere, but they’re a guilty pleasure for cooks. Also known as the Armenian or Himalayan Blackberry, these vicious vines have a habit of taking over flower beds and roadside right-of-ways if left to their own devices.

That’s bad news for native plants everywhere (including Rubus ursinus, the non-invasive blackberry that grows well in Oregon) but good news for people looking to pick free blackberries in the summertime.

Blackberries grow along the bike path where I ride almost daily, and all year I look forward to August, when their sweet smell fills the air on warm afternoons. Most days I stop on my way home from work to pick a few and enjoy them in their simplest form.

Blackberries make spectacular cooked desserts. My dear friend Rebecca Larson likes to make Blackberry Pie and offered to share her recipe for this column. However, when pressed, this was her version:

“Take as many blackberries as you can con your family or your co-workers into picking (Rebecca usually gets her blackberries in the back lot at St. Vincent de Paul in Eugene, where she works). Tell them to pick the berries into a colander so you can rinse them without transferring them into another bowl. Toss them with some flour (not too much, so you get lots of juice), about a cup of sugar (depending on how sweet they are) and around a tablespoon of orange zest. You don’t really taste the orange but it gives the berries a really rich flavor. Put them in a pie crust and dot with butter. Put a second crust on top and sprinkle with more sugar. Bake at 400 degrees for about 15 minutes, then lower the temperature to 350 degrees and bake until the crust is golden brown (about 40 minutes).

“And if your oven starts smoking before you bake the pie, it’s time to clean it. Oh well, too late!”

This freedom to experiment will surely delight experienced cooks. For those of you (like me) who prefer to cook from a recipe, try Blackberry Cobbler. This is my family’s favorite way to enjoy blackberries. It’s best served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

For a real treat you can substitute marionberries, also known as the Marion blackberry, in either of these recipes. Marionberries were developed at Oregon State University and are named after Marion County, where they were most heavily tested. They’re grown exclusively in Oregon and are renowned for their big size and rich taste. I freeze several cups every year so I can make berry pies at Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Whether you enjoy them now or later, plain or in baked goods, blackberries are a real show-stopper. Enjoy them while you can.

Blackberry Cobbler
Makes 6 to 8 servings
4 T. butter
1 c. sugar, divided
1 c. flour
2 t. baking powder
1/4 t. salt
1/2 c. milk
4 c. blackberries
1 c. apple juice

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Grease a 2 quart casserole dish. In a small bowl mix together flour, baking powder and salt; set aside.

In a mixing bowl, beat together butter and 1/2 c. sugar. Stir in flour mixture alternately with milk, beginning and ending with flour. Pour the batter into prepared dish. Top with blackberries; sprinkle with remaining 1/2 c. sugar.

In a small saucepan, heat apple juice until boiling. Pour over blackberries. Bake for 50 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the middle has only a few moist crumbs.

Friday, August 13, 2010

Cool Off With Cool Summer Treats

Ice cream is my favorite food, and there’s no better time to enjoy it than summer. Whether it’s vanilla topped with fresh berries, or something packed with chocolate on a cone, there are lots of ways to enjoy this cool treat.

It seems like there are more choices than ever in the ice cream shop freezers. Here’s a quick guide to understanding different types of frozen desserts:

• Ice cream: Frozen dessert made with cream, egg yolks, sugar, and extras like nuts, berries or candy.
• Frozen yogurt: Made with yogurt instead of cream, making it lower in fat than many ice creams.
• Sorbet: Frozen dessert made with water and juice instead of milk. Typically flavored with fruit and/or herbs. You can make it without an ice cream maker, although the texture will be different.
• Sherbet: Confection that uses less milk than ice cream and is typically flavored with fruit juice.
• Gelato: Italian ice cream that replaces some or all of the cream with milk. Good gelato is richer and creamier than regular ice cream.

As long as you have an ice cream maker, it’s fairly easy to whip up a batch of your favorite treat at home. Orange-Lemon Gelato is sure to please and is a little different from regular ice cream.

Chocolate Ice Cream Roll is a family favorite. For years my grandmother made it for me instead of a regular birthday cake. She would even frost the top and put a couple birthday candles in it. For Christmas she would substitute peppermint ice cream for the vanilla.

These cool finishes to your meal should leave you refreshed even on the warmest summer evenings.

Orange-Lemon Gelato
Makes 8 servings
5 egg yolks
¼ c. sugar
2 c. 2% milk
4 strips orange peel
4 strips lemon peel
In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks and sugar; set aside.
Scald milk, orange peel, and lemon peel in a saucepan with a heavy bottom. Slowly whisk half the hot milk mixture into egg yolks, then return egg yolk mixture to pan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture coats the back of a spoon, about 8 minutes. Remove peel and place milk mixture in refrigerator.
When mixture is cool, freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s directions.

Chocolate Ice Cream Roll
Makes 10-12 servings
3/4 c. flour
1/4 t. salt
4 T. cocoa
1 T. lemon juice
5 eggs, separated
1 c. sugar
1 quart vanilla ice cream

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a 15” x 1” jelly roll pan with wax paper. Lay a clean dish towel (at least as large as jelly roll pan) on counter.
In a mixing bowl, beat egg whites until they hold stiff peaks, adding sugar 1 tablespoon at a time. In a separate bowl, mix flour, salt and cocoa.

In a cleaning mixing bowl, beat egg yolks with lemon juice until they hold soft peaks. Add dry ingredients and stir gently to combine. Fold in egg whites. Pour batter into jelly roll pan and bake for 15 minutes. Immediately invert cake on dish towel. Remove wax paper and roll up cake. Leave until cake has completed cooled.

When cake has almost cooled, set ice cream on counter to soften. Unroll cake and spread with ice cream. Re-roll cake. Wrap in double thickness of aluminum foil and freeze at least four hours. To serve, unwrap cake and slice with a sharp knife.

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Cooking with Flowers

Strolling through the Farmers’ Market the other day, a bag of salad greens with spots of red and yellow popped out at me. Exotic lettuce? Actually, nasturtiums, edible flowers that have an intense peppery bite. They’re delicious in salads and add a gorgeous touch to the dinner table.

A surprising number of flowers are edible. A publication from the Colorado State University Extension Service lists over 20 common flowers that can be eaten, including nasturtiums, lavender, pansies and scented geraniums. Hibiscus syrup and rose water can be used in everything from meat dishes to desserts. Many herb flowers, such as chives and thyme, also make nice garnishes for salads.

If you’re thinking about including edible flowers in your next meal, seek out blooms that are organic or have not been sprayed with pesticides. If possible, pick the flowers right before you use them. Most can be stored in the refrigerator for a couple hours.

Research your bloom of choice before you use it. On some flowers, only certain parts (usually the petals) are edible. You may need to remove the pistils, sepals and/or stamens, which can be bitter, before eating.

Most important, if you’re in doubt about whether a flower is really edible, don’t eat it.

Stuffed with an herbed ricotta cheese mixture and dipped in tempura batter, Fried Squash Blossoms are delicious and fun. The tempura recipe calls for club soda, which makes the batter lighter. This recipe is based on one from the University of Illinois Extension Service website, which also has great advice about choosing and picking squash blossoms from your own yard.

Lavender brings a soft floral taste and fragrance to baked goods. Honey Lavender Cornbread is a nice way to showcase it. The bread, which doesn’t skimp on the honey, is more dessert than side dish. Crush the lavender blossoms with your fingers before mixing them into the batter to make them less intense.

Many dishes with edible flowers are pretty enough that you won’t need a separate centerpiece. Just put your salad, squash blossoms or whatever else in the middle of the table so everyone can enjoy the flowers before they dig in.

Fried Squash Blossoms

Makes 16 servings

16 squash blossoms
1/4 c. ricotta cheese
1 garlic clove, minced
1/4 t. salt
1/4 t. pepper
1 T. fresh herbs (such as basil, thyme or parsley), minced
2 c. rice flour
1/2 t. salt
2 c. cold club soda
Canola oil for frying

In a small bowl, combine cheese, garlic, salt, pepper and herbs. Spoon about ½ teaspoon of mixture into center of each blossom. Twist top of each blossom together to seal. Put stuffed blossoms on a baking sheet and refrigerate for 15 minutes.

Mix flour and salt in a large shallow bowl. Add club soda and gently stir.
Heat 1/2” of canola oil in a skillet to 350 degrees. Dip blossoms in tempura batter, then carefully fry on each side in oil until golden brown, 1-2 minutes per side. Do not crowd the pan, and keep oil as close to 350 degrees as possible. Remove blossoms with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Serve warm.

Honey Lavender Cornbread
Makes 10-12 servings
1/3 c. butter, softened
1/3 c. honey
2 eggs
1 t. vanilla
1 t. lavender flowers
1-1/4 c. all-purpose flour
3/4 c. cornmeal
1 T. baking powder
1 t. coarse salt
1 c. milk
2 t. sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 8-1/2” x 4-1/2” loaf pan; set aside. In a large bowl combine flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt; set aside.

In a mixing bowl, cream butter and honey. Beat in eggs, vanilla and lavender flowers. Add dry ingredients alternately with milk.

Pour batter into prepared pan. Sprinkle sugar over the top. Cook for 40-50 minutes or until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean. Let cool for 10 minutes, then remove from pan and place on a wire rack. Let bread cool completely before slicing.

Monday, July 5, 2010

Celiac Disease, Gluten Intolerance Facts and Recipes

Two days after the Thanksgiving of 2004, Springfield resident "Mary B." was weak, pale, and could no longer take the feeling of jackhammers pounding in her head. She checked herself into the hospital, where she was treated for anemia. The underlying cause of her condition was a mystery, however, so her doctors ordered some tests.

A month later Mary got the news: she had Celiac disease, a digestive disease that makes the body unable to tolerate gluten. Gluten is a protein found in wheat, barley, and rye. When a Celiac sufferer eats gluten it causes damage to the small intestine. As a result, the body is less able to absorb nutrients from food. This can lead to malnutrition, weight loss, chronic fatigue, premature osteoporosis and other serious problems. The Gluten Intolerance Group estimates there are 2 million people in the United States with Celiac disease.

Some people who feel ill when they eat gluten may have gluten intolerance, a less severe condition that has not been proven to damage the small intestine. Still, people with gluten intolerance may experience symptoms such as bloating, diarrhea, constipation, or acid reflux.

The day Mary found out she had Celiac disease, “I went to my pantry and started pulling things off the shelves. It was almost bare by the time I finished,” she says. Celiac disease means more than cutting out bread. Many processed foods, from marinades to soups to processed lunch meats, have small amounts of flour in them. Oats are often cross-contaminated with wheat or other grains because they’re grown and processed together. Eating in restaurants can be tricky, as many places mix and cook their gluten-free and non-gluten-free items on the same surfaces.

The good news is that as more people find out they have Celiac disease, more food options are becoming available to them. Manufacturers are starting to produce more gluten-free flours, cereals and other products. Grocery stores are stocking these items more frequently.

And creative people are developing really delicious recipes. Michie Page is a member of the Eugene chapter of the Gluten Intolerance Group. Her Heaven on a Plate (Truffle Cake) is absolutely divine. A copy of the recipe is included here, and you can find more of Michie’s recipes at www.gig-eugene.org (look for her “GFChef” moniker). The website also has more information about the Eugene Gluten Intolerance Group, which served people from Springfield and all of Lane County. (For the national Gluten Intolerance Group website, visit www.gluten.net).

Mary highly recommends the group for anyone with Celiac disease or gluten intolerance. “You get a lot of good information with the speakers they bring in,” she says. Plus, “It’s nice to know that others are in the same boat as you are.”

Heaven on a Plate (Truffle Cake)
1-1/4 c. unsalted butter
1/4 c. Hershey's® Special Dark® cocoa
1/2 c. Hershey's® cocoa
1 c. plus 1 T. sugar, divided
1 T. gluten-free multi-blend flour
3 t. gluten-free vanilla extract
4 eggs, separated
2 t. soy sour cream

Heat oven to 425°F. Grease bottom of 8-inch springform pan.

Melt butter in medium saucepan over low heat. Sift in cocoa and 1 cup sugar, stirring until well blended. Remove from heat; cool slightly. Stir in flour, soy sour cream and vanilla. Add egg yolks, one at a time, beating well after each addition.

Beat egg whites with remaining 1 tablespoon sugar in medium bowl until soft peaks form; gradually fold into chocolate mixture. Spoon batter into prepared pan.
Bake 16 to 18 minutes or until edges are firm (center will be soft). Cool completely on wire rack (cake will sink slightly in center as it cools). Remove side of pan. Refrigerate cake at least 6 hours.

Monday, May 17, 2010

Go Green at the Farmers Market

The Springfield Farmers Market is set to open its third season on Friday, May 7 at 3:00pm. A visit to the market this time of year means being encountered by a lot of green, and not (necessarily) the University of Oregon kind. Greens such as lettuce, spinach, kale, and bok choy are prolific this time of year. These plants grow well in cooler conditions, which is why you see more of them in the spring but less in the summer.

Cabbage might not generate as much excitement as things like berries and tomatoes, but if you look at the nutritional value of these delicious veggies you’re likely to get more excited. I have a fantastic book called “The World’s Healthiest Foods” by George Mateljna. After many years of research, George created a list of what he considers to be the world’s 80 healthiest foods. The most nutrient rich food on his list? Spinach. Swiss chard, romaine lettuce, collard greens, kale, and mustard greens follow further down the list. A glance at the “nutrient-richness chart” of each shows these greens to be an excellent source of things such as vitamins K, A, C, folate, iron, and calcium. (And berry lovers can rest assured – strawberries and raspberries also rank highly on George’s healthiest foods chart.) You can get more information about "The World's Healthiest Foods" at http://whfoods.org.

If preparing some of these greens will be a new experience for you, here are a few suggestions to get you started. Almost everyone likes coleslaw, so if you have picky eaters, give Collard Slaw a try. One day while I was preparing coleslaw I tossed in some collard greens that were languishing in the refrigerator. Collards are surprisingly sweet when eaten raw, and the light dressing won’t make the vegetables soggy. The mustard’s spiciness intensifies the longer the coleslaw sits, so you might make this dish the night before you plan to serve it.

My fiancé invented Creamy Chicken and Bok Choy during his bachelor days, and we still enjoy it frequently in the spring. It comes together fast and tastes great over steamed rice.

The market’s organizers are working to make your source of fruits, veggies, homemade goods, and plants even more fun this year. They will be offering music, demonstrations, and other activities to keep you entertained while you’re shopping. The best part for me is always thinking about what I’m going to make with all that produce when I get home.

Collard Slaw
Makes 12 servings
1/4 c. apple cider vinegar
2 T. sugar
1 t. ground mustard
1/2 t. celery seed
Pinch salt
1 small bunch collard greens (about five leaves), cut into very thin strips
1/2 head green cabbage, cut into very thin strips
1/2 head purple cabbage, cut into very thin strips
2 carrots, grated or very finely chopped
1/4 red or yellow onion, grated or very finely chopped

In a small saucepan, heat vinegar and sugar. Stir occasionally until sugar has dissolved. Let cool slightly.

Place remaining ingredients in a large bowl. Pour dressing over collard mixture and toss thoroughly to combine.

Creamy Chicken and Bok Choy
Makes four servings
2 c. white rice
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cubed
2 t. olive oil
1/2 onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
5-6 mushrooms, sliced
1 T. white wine
2 t. Dijon mustard
2 t. soy sauce
1 t. lemon juice
1/2 t. paprika
1/2 t. ground cumin
Pinch cayenne pepper
Pinch cinnamon
1 bunch baby bok choy, coarsely chopped
2-3 T. light sour cream
Salt and pepper

Cook rice according to package directions. In the meantime, in a large skillet, heat oil. Add chicken and cook through. Add onion and garlic and cook until they begin to soften, 2-3 minutes. Add mushrooms and cook for 1 minute.

Add white wine, Dijon mustard, soy sauce, lemon juice, paprika, cumin, cayenne pepper, and cinnamon. Stir well to combine. Cook for 3-4 minutes or until bubbly.

Add bok choy to skillet and cook until it begins to wilt. Add sour cream and cook until heated through (do not let sauce come to a boil). Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve over cooked rice.