Monday, November 29, 2010

Two Families' Secret Holiday Recipes

At the age of 95 my grandma Stella finally “retired” from the role as Thanksgiving dinner cook. Given my near-obsession with cooking, I immediately volunteered to take on the job. The only part that worried me was trying to duplicate one of my grandmother’s most cherished recipes: feather-light Ice Box Rolls that only appeared on the table at holidays.

Everyone in my family had tried to make rolls as good as my grandmother’s. They never succeeded. I knew Thanksgiving wouldn’t be the same without them. I had eaten those rolls every Thanksgiving and Christmas my entire life. Was I really up for the challenge?

Most families have a sacred recipe that makes its way to the table holiday after holiday. Funny enough, in my husband’s family it was also a recipe for rolls. Grandma Lucy’s Rohliky (the Czech word for “rolls”) were the thing everyone looked forward to at Thanksgiving dinner. The recipe comes via Bohemia, now a region of the Czech Republic, the area from which grandma Lucy’s family hailed.

Turns out my first batch of Ice Box Rolls were just as good as my grandmother’s. I’m convinced it’s because she stood next to me and walked me through each step. Each subsequent batch has been almost, but not quite, up to par.

Someday I’ll work up the nerve to make Rohliky and see if my husband can tell the difference. Unfortunately Grandma Lucy passed away in 2005 and isn’t here to help teach me. If you have a family member who makes a world-class recipe, ask if you can help them prepare it this holiday season. When you’re trying to preserve that special tradition there’s nothing like learning from the master.

Ice Box Rolls
Makes about 24 rolls
1 c. mashed potatoes
2/3 c. shortening
2/3 c. sugar
1 c. milk
2 eggs
1 t. salt
1 yeast cake (or one package yeast)
3 c. plus extra flour
2 T. butter, melted

Place shortening, potatoes, and sugar in a large mixing bowl. Scald milk; add and stir well. Let mixture cool to lukewarm, then add eggs and salt. Crumble yeast in your hand and stir into milk mixture. Stir in only enough flour to make mixture the consistency of pancake batter (about 1 cup). Cover with plastic and let rise in the refrigerator until doubled, 1-2 hours.

Stir in enough flour to make a stiff dough. Cover, place bowl back in refrigerator, and let rise overnight (checking once and punching down if necessary to keep dough from flowing out of pan).

Shape as desired. To make Parker House rolls: On a lightly floured board, roll dough to 1/4" thickness. Cut out with a biscuit cutter. Brush both sides of roll in butter. Using a knife, make a small crease in the center, then fold so one side is slightly off-set from the other. Place rolls in ungreased 13” x 9” pan. Cover with a towel and let rise at room temperature for about four hours.

Cook at 375 degrees for 15-20 minutes or until golden brown.

Rohliky
Makes 25 rolls
3 c. flour
1/4 c. sugar
1 t. salt
1/4 c. shortening
1 egg, beaten
1 c. warm milk
1 envelope yeast, dissolved in 2 T. warm water and ¼ t. sugar
For topping:
1 egg, beaten
1 T. water
Poppy seeds or sesame seeds

In a large bowl, combine flour, sugar and salt. Add shortening and mix well. Add egg, milk and yeast and stir to combine. Dough will be a little sticky.

Grease bowl, then return dough. Cover bowl with a towel and put in a warm place. Let rise until doubled. Punch down and let rise again.

Tear off a chunk of dough big enough to fit in your palm. Roll between your hands into a rope as big around as a nickel and about six inches long. Tie in a loose knot. Place on a greased baking sheet; curve ends slightly.

Combine egg and water; brush over top of each roll. Sprinkle with poppy seeds or sesame seeds. Cover with a towel and let rise again. Bake at 375 degrees for 15-20 minutes or until golden brown.

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

A Lesson in Cooking Oils

I try to keep up on current health trends and consider myself relatively knowledgeable about food. So when a lengthy article claiming that canola oil was bad for you appeared on my Twitter feed I was shocked. Canola oil was supposed to be the best thing since sliced bread, the heart-healthy oil. And now I hear it can cause diseases?

The next blow came when my sister informed me olive oil has carcinogenic properties when you cook it. All the cooks I admire use olive oil. Lots of it, in some cases. Could it really be true?

In my despair I called my friend Yaakov Levine. Yaakov is a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner with offices in Creswell and Eugene and a columnist for the Creswell Chronicle (see copies of his past columns here). Surely he could offer an answer to my oil dilemma.

He did, although he didn’t have quite the answers I was looking for. Canola oil is, in fact, not the healthy alternative it’s touted to be. “Some people call [canola oil] ‘Franken-oil’,” he said. It’s made from genetically modified seeds and must be highly processed before it goes to market, which strips out most of the benefits. (Here is a copy of the original article on NaturalNews.com that tipped me off about canola oil).

And “The World’s Healthiest Foods” by George Mateljan, my favorite food reference book, states that heating olive oil at high temperatures can cause the “formation of unwanted aromatic substances . . . in the oil that can increase our risk of chronic health problems including cancer.”

So what’s a cook to do? “We all need fat in our diet,” Yaakov was quick to point out. Fat gives our cells structure and our bodies energy. There are essential fats that we need that our bodies can’t produce, so we need to find them elsewhere.

The key is choosing the right fat. Yaakov is a proponent of coconut oil. It’s easy to digest, provides plenty of energy, and has a nice flavor. Added bonus in the winter – it has anti-bacterial properties that help prevent colds and flus. Try it when cooking vegetables, in a smoothie, or in Gooey Balls, a dessert recipe provided by Yaakov.

Butter and lard are Yaakov’s other fats of choice. Skip the brick of lard at the grocery store, which is likely to have trans fats. Visit your local butcher instead and see if he or she has a source for something produced locally.
High-oleic sunflower oil is an option in recipes where you don’t want the taste of the oil to be overpowering – for example, Red Onion Salad Dressing, a staple around my house. (A high-oleic oil is one that is high in monounsaturated acid, a “good” fat.) High-oleic safflower oil can be used on the rare occasion when you must deep-fry something.

Eaten at room temperature, or even used for light frying, olive oil is still a good choice.

“What leads me down the road toward more traditional fats is that we have problems with diseases now that we didn’t use to have,” Yaakov says. 100 years ago “they weren’t eating so many plant and seed fats like we are now.” Heart disease is now the leading cause of death for Americans, and poor diet is part of the reason for that.

Whatever type of oil you use, store it in a dark colored bottle and out of direct light. Oil turns rancid quite easily.

All fats should still be used sparingly. Here’s one last tip on lowering your consumption of heated oils: the next time a recipe directs you to brown meat in oil, use a little bit of high-quality stock instead. It will add extra flavor and keep the meat from sticking to the pan. Freeze stock in ice cube trays and store the cubes in plastic bags so you always have some handy.

Gooey Balls
1 c. coconut oil
2 c. shredded coconut
1 c. sesame seeds
6 dates, finely chopped
Pinch high mineral sea salt
Vanilla or orange extract to taste

Melt coconut oil gently (it melts at 76 degrees). Stir in remaining ingredients. Form into balls, place on a baking sheet, and chill.
(Note: For a less sweet option, replace the dates with a grated apple and a drizzle of lemon juice.)

Red Onion Salad Dressing
1/2 c. champagne or apple cider vinegar
1/4 red onion
2 T. honey
1 t. Dijon mustard
1 t. salt
1/2 c. high-oleic sunflower oil

Place vinegar, onion, honey, mustard and salt in a blender. Blend until well combined. With blender on, add oil in a slow, steady stream until well combined.

Monday, November 8, 2010

Top Five Winter Squash Recipes

Forgive me for having a total foodie moment, but I had the most amazing squash experience the other day.

I should start by saying that I don't really like squash. I've come to enjoy butternut in some things, and I'll eat a slice of pumpkin pie if it has enough whipped cream on it. But most of the time, everything about it grosses me out.

But since I make pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving every year, I wanted to try cooking and freezing a Hubbard squash. My cousin always used flesh from the blue gourd in pies and got rave results.

I picked up a squash at the farmers' market one Saturday. I quartered it, scooped out the seeds (which were excellent roasted in the oven with some butter, seasoning salt and minced garlic, by the way, but that's another story), and roasted it in the oven. When it finally came out of the oven the flesh was dark, wrinkly and stringy-looking. It didn't exactly scream "perfect holiday dessert." As soon as it cooled I scooped the soft flesh into a bowl and let it chill in the fridge for a couple days while I tried to figure out what to do with it.

Eventually inspiration struck. I could put the squash through a food mill. That would catch the stringy, icky parts and keep them separate from the squash I could actually use.

I set to work with my mom's old food mill, a cone-shaped strainer with a wooden paddle. Soon bright orange squash starting coming out the tiny holes in the mill. I scraped it down into the bowl before setting to work on the next chunk of squash.

All the squash, even the parts that looked inedible, were smooth as custard by the time I was done. The more I handled the squash with my (very clean) hands, the more I marveled at the incredible texture of it. I'd never seen squash so smooth - except in those cans of pumpkin pie filling. Who know you could produce something so lovely at home?

Alas, I ran out of squash way too quickly. I scooped two-cup portions into freezer bags and packed them away. My squash weighed less than 10 pounds and yielded nearly six cups of can-perfect pie filling.

I have yet to actually try the squash, but I'm hoping it will continue to change my opinion about this vitamin-packed veggie. After Thanksgiving I'll post an update on how I do!

Which brings me to... a squash skeptic's five favorite ways to use winter squash:

1) Pumpkin Pie: This recipe from Martha Stewart Living includes chipotle chili powder, which makes an already-amazing pie recipe even better.

2) Apple-Cheddar-Squash Soup: from The Food Network. Sure, it has squash, but it also has good things too, like apples and cheese and potatoes. Smoked gouda is good in place of the cheddar too.

3) Winter Squash Risotto with Prosciutto, Hazelnuts and Sage: Originally from the Oregonian's FOODday section, one of the my favorite recipe resources. Don't scrimp on the hazelnuts. They really add a lot.

4) & 5) I admit I haven't tried these two recipes, but they come highly recommended by my friend who works at FOOD for Lane County. I'm sure they're good... if you like eating squash. Me, I may stick with mostly playing with it.

Butternut Squash and Ginger Soup
1 butternut squash
2 T. butter
1 onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, sliced
2 T. fresh ginger root, minced
6 c. water or stock
2 t. salt
Apple cider vinegar
Crème fraîche or sour cream
Toasted hazelnuts, chopped
Cut squash in half lengthwise and place on a rimmed baking sheet, cut side down, with water in the pan. Cook at 375 degrees for 45 minutes or until the squash is soft. Scoop out the seeds and set aside (seeds can be roasted later if desired). Scoop out the flesh and place in a bowl.

Heat butter in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger root and cook until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add the cooked squash, water or stock, and salt; bring to a simmer. Cook until the squash is tender enough to smash with a spoon, about 30 minutes.

Puree the soup with an immersion or upright blender. Ladle the soup through a strainer into a clean soup pot, discarding any bits of squash or ginger left behind.
Heat the soup through once more and season to taste, adding salt first and then the vinegar. Add the vinegar one-half teaspoon at a time; it will take a little more than 1 tablespoon.

To serve, ladle the soup into wide bowls and spoon 1 to 2 tablespoons of crème fraîche onto each. Scatter a few toasted hazelnuts over the soup and serve immediately.

Stuffed Acorn Squash
1 acorn squash
2 c. chopped apples
1 c. roasted walnuts
1 T. maple syrup
2 T. melted butter
½ t. salt
Slice squash in half lengthwise, remove seeds, and place face down on a rimmed baking sheet. Cook at 375 degrees until squash is just tender, 25-40 minutes.
Combine remaining ingredients. Scoop filling into the center cavity and bake squash face up for another 10-15 minutes or until tender.

Monday, October 18, 2010

Tea Parties a Great Way to Entertain

In 2004 I took a temporary work assignment in England. I’d always imagined the British drinking a lot of tea, and it didn’t take me long to figure out why. I worked in an unheated warehouse throughout the winter, and guzzling hot beverages was about the only way of keeping warm.

Upon my return to the United States, with its heated buildings and obsession with fancy coffee drinks, my tea addiction fell out of habit. But the experience piqued my interest in tea and tea parties, and I still find this to be a terrific party theme.

If you want to host your own tea party, do what you can to personalize it to your guests’ interests. A teddy bear or Mad Hatter theme is fun for kids, while a garden or apron party may be better for adults.

Pay close attention to how you brew your tea. Black tea leaves should be placed in the cup or pot before boiling water is poured over the top. Green teas and white teas shouldn’t be brewed in boiling water or they can develop a bitter taste. Remove the water from its heat source before it reaches boiling, or let it cool a little before you steep the leaves. No matter what kind of tea you use, loose tea will provide more flavor than bagged tea, since the water can swirl all the way around the leaves.

Many traditional teas offer both savory and sweet snacks. Although they’re certainly not required, scones will make your guests think of jolly old England.

St. Patrick’s Day Scones are fairly traditional, although the dried fruit is an unusual touch. Leave the dried fruit out if you want to offer your guests jam and whipped cream for their scones, or substitute raisins or currants. Cranberry-Cornmeal Scones, on the other hand, are just different enough to leave your friends talking.

St. Patrick’s Day Scones
Makes 9 servings
2 c. flour
1/2 c. sugar
2 t. baking powder
1/4 t. salt
One pinch cinnamon
1/2 c. butter, cut into cubes
1/2 c. plus 1 T. milk, divided
2 eggs, divided
1/3 c. dried, chopped mixed fruit

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl, combine flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and cinnamon. Cut in butter with a fork or your fingers until mixture is crumbly. Add 1/2 c. milk and 1 egg and stir just until ingredients are combined. Add dried fruit and stir gently to combine.

Drop dough by 1/3 cup at a time onto ungreased baking sheet. Beat together remaining 1 T. milk and egg; brush over top of each scone. Bake for 20 minutes or until lightly brown. Cool on a wire rack.

Cranberry-Cornmeal Scones
Makes 8 servings
1-1/2 c. cornmeal
3/4 c. flour
1/4 c. sugar
3/4 t. baking powder
1/4 t. salt
1/4 c. butter, cut into cubes
1/2 c. milk
1/3 c. dried cranberries

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Grease a baking sheet; set aside.

Combine dry ingredients in a large bowl. Cut in butter with a fork or your fingers until mixture is crumbly. Add milk and stir just until ingredients are combined.

Turn onto a floured cutting board. Sprinkle with cranberries and knead to combine. Transfer to baking sheet and shape into a circle approximately 7 inches in diameter. Cut into eight wedges and separate, leaving about one inch between wedges. Bake for 12-15 minutes or until scones spring back lightly when touched. Cool on a wire rack.

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Slow Cooker Makes Dinner a Breeze

Fall is in the air. I hate to admit it, but I can feel it every morning when I open the front door. While I’m always sad to think about the lazy days of summer coming to an end, I do look forward to the warm, hearty meals that make their way back into my regular rotation.

With the kids going back to school and regular meetings starting back up, it can be tough to get dinner on the table fast. Once a week I usually put something in the slow cooker. It takes a little advanced planning the night before or in the morning, but it’s worth it to have a meal ready when I get home from work or on a busy weekend.

Slow cookers have been around since the 1960s. They use a heating element in the bottom to cook foods slowly and safely. They’re handy in the summer and early fall, since they won’t heat up the kitchen like the oven. They also use less energy than the oven, which is a plus for the budget conscious. Slow cookers can be used for anything from soups and stews to desserts such as cobblers and bread pudding.

Tough cuts of meat are great for slow cookers because they respond well to slow, lower temperature cooking. The next time you find pot roast on sale at the grocery store, buy it, cut it into cubes, and make Burgundy Beef. This was my mother’s go-to slow cooker recipe. The combination of soup and wine cooks into a rich gravy that’s delicious over brown rice or egg noodles.

Slow Cooker Ribs is another one of my go-to recipes. They’re cooked with a homemade barbeque sauce and a heap of onions, which get so soft they’ll melt in your mouth.

Most slow cooker recipes, including Bugundy Beef, do best if they’re cooked no longer than five or six hours. Left too long, the meat gets dry and the sauce overcooks. These recipes are best reserved for weekends or when you can run home on your lunch break. Slow Cooker Ribs, on the other hand, can be cooked for up to nine hours.

Burgundy Beef
Makes 8 servings
2-3 lbs. beef stew meat
2-3 t. oil
1 envelope dry onion soup mix
1 can cream of mushroom soup
1 can cream of celery soup
1 c. red wine
Cooked brown rice or egg noodles

Heat oil in a large skillet. Brown stew meat on all sides. Transfer to slow cooker.

Combine soup mix, soups, and wine. Fill one soup can with water; add to mixture. Stir well to combine, then pour over beef. Cook on low setting for 5-6 hours. Serve over cooked brown rice or egg noodles.

Slow Cooker Ribs
Makes 4 servings
1 T. oil
2 lbs. country style pork ribs
2 onions, sliced
1 c. ketchup
1 c. water
1/4 c. packed brown sugar
1/4 c. cider vinegar
2 T. Worcestershire sauce
2 t. ground mustard
1 t. salt
1 t. paprika

Heat oil in a large skillet. Brown ribs on all sides. Place half the ribs in slow cooker. Top with half the onions. Repeat layers. Combine remaining ingredients; pour over ribs. Cook on low setting for 8-9 hours.

Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Blackberries Make Show-Stopping Desserts

Rubus armeniacus may be the bane of gardeners everywhere, but they’re a guilty pleasure for cooks. Also known as the Armenian or Himalayan Blackberry, these vicious vines have a habit of taking over flower beds and roadside right-of-ways if left to their own devices.

That’s bad news for native plants everywhere (including Rubus ursinus, the non-invasive blackberry that grows well in Oregon) but good news for people looking to pick free blackberries in the summertime.

Blackberries grow along the bike path where I ride almost daily, and all year I look forward to August, when their sweet smell fills the air on warm afternoons. Most days I stop on my way home from work to pick a few and enjoy them in their simplest form.

Blackberries make spectacular cooked desserts. My dear friend Rebecca Larson likes to make Blackberry Pie and offered to share her recipe for this column. However, when pressed, this was her version:

“Take as many blackberries as you can con your family or your co-workers into picking (Rebecca usually gets her blackberries in the back lot at St. Vincent de Paul in Eugene, where she works). Tell them to pick the berries into a colander so you can rinse them without transferring them into another bowl. Toss them with some flour (not too much, so you get lots of juice), about a cup of sugar (depending on how sweet they are) and around a tablespoon of orange zest. You don’t really taste the orange but it gives the berries a really rich flavor. Put them in a pie crust and dot with butter. Put a second crust on top and sprinkle with more sugar. Bake at 400 degrees for about 15 minutes, then lower the temperature to 350 degrees and bake until the crust is golden brown (about 40 minutes).

“And if your oven starts smoking before you bake the pie, it’s time to clean it. Oh well, too late!”

This freedom to experiment will surely delight experienced cooks. For those of you (like me) who prefer to cook from a recipe, try Blackberry Cobbler. This is my family’s favorite way to enjoy blackberries. It’s best served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

For a real treat you can substitute marionberries, also known as the Marion blackberry, in either of these recipes. Marionberries were developed at Oregon State University and are named after Marion County, where they were most heavily tested. They’re grown exclusively in Oregon and are renowned for their big size and rich taste. I freeze several cups every year so I can make berry pies at Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Whether you enjoy them now or later, plain or in baked goods, blackberries are a real show-stopper. Enjoy them while you can.

Blackberry Cobbler
Makes 6 to 8 servings
4 T. butter
1 c. sugar, divided
1 c. flour
2 t. baking powder
1/4 t. salt
1/2 c. milk
4 c. blackberries
1 c. apple juice

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Grease a 2 quart casserole dish. In a small bowl mix together flour, baking powder and salt; set aside.

In a mixing bowl, beat together butter and 1/2 c. sugar. Stir in flour mixture alternately with milk, beginning and ending with flour. Pour the batter into prepared dish. Top with blackberries; sprinkle with remaining 1/2 c. sugar.

In a small saucepan, heat apple juice until boiling. Pour over blackberries. Bake for 50 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the middle has only a few moist crumbs.

Friday, August 13, 2010

Cool Off With Cool Summer Treats

Ice cream is my favorite food, and there’s no better time to enjoy it than summer. Whether it’s vanilla topped with fresh berries, or something packed with chocolate on a cone, there are lots of ways to enjoy this cool treat.

It seems like there are more choices than ever in the ice cream shop freezers. Here’s a quick guide to understanding different types of frozen desserts:

• Ice cream: Frozen dessert made with cream, egg yolks, sugar, and extras like nuts, berries or candy.
• Frozen yogurt: Made with yogurt instead of cream, making it lower in fat than many ice creams.
• Sorbet: Frozen dessert made with water and juice instead of milk. Typically flavored with fruit and/or herbs. You can make it without an ice cream maker, although the texture will be different.
• Sherbet: Confection that uses less milk than ice cream and is typically flavored with fruit juice.
• Gelato: Italian ice cream that replaces some or all of the cream with milk. Good gelato is richer and creamier than regular ice cream.

As long as you have an ice cream maker, it’s fairly easy to whip up a batch of your favorite treat at home. Orange-Lemon Gelato is sure to please and is a little different from regular ice cream.

Chocolate Ice Cream Roll is a family favorite. For years my grandmother made it for me instead of a regular birthday cake. She would even frost the top and put a couple birthday candles in it. For Christmas she would substitute peppermint ice cream for the vanilla.

These cool finishes to your meal should leave you refreshed even on the warmest summer evenings.

Orange-Lemon Gelato
Makes 8 servings
5 egg yolks
¼ c. sugar
2 c. 2% milk
4 strips orange peel
4 strips lemon peel
In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks and sugar; set aside.
Scald milk, orange peel, and lemon peel in a saucepan with a heavy bottom. Slowly whisk half the hot milk mixture into egg yolks, then return egg yolk mixture to pan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture coats the back of a spoon, about 8 minutes. Remove peel and place milk mixture in refrigerator.
When mixture is cool, freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer’s directions.

Chocolate Ice Cream Roll
Makes 10-12 servings
3/4 c. flour
1/4 t. salt
4 T. cocoa
1 T. lemon juice
5 eggs, separated
1 c. sugar
1 quart vanilla ice cream

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a 15” x 1” jelly roll pan with wax paper. Lay a clean dish towel (at least as large as jelly roll pan) on counter.
In a mixing bowl, beat egg whites until they hold stiff peaks, adding sugar 1 tablespoon at a time. In a separate bowl, mix flour, salt and cocoa.

In a cleaning mixing bowl, beat egg yolks with lemon juice until they hold soft peaks. Add dry ingredients and stir gently to combine. Fold in egg whites. Pour batter into jelly roll pan and bake for 15 minutes. Immediately invert cake on dish towel. Remove wax paper and roll up cake. Leave until cake has completed cooled.

When cake has almost cooled, set ice cream on counter to soften. Unroll cake and spread with ice cream. Re-roll cake. Wrap in double thickness of aluminum foil and freeze at least four hours. To serve, unwrap cake and slice with a sharp knife.