Every time we’ve had a sunny day recently I’ve started dreaming about getting into my yard and planting vegetables. Then it rains, and my enthusiasm fizzles a little.
If spring’s unpredictable weather has you in a funk, start your gardening season by planting a container herb garden. Fresh herbs will add a delicious dimension to your cooking. They bring lots of flavor to dishes without adding salt. Raising your own herb patch is also a great way to save money. Herbs can be expensive this time of year, and you often have to buy them in large bunches even if you only need a couple teaspoons.
Many herbs grow well in pots or other containers. You can grow some warm weather herbs, like basil and cilantro, in the house if you have a sunny window. Herbs are beautiful mixed into a flower bed if you happen to have one. Some of them, like chives and oregano, produce flowers once the weather starts to warm up.
Parsley, thyme, oregano, chives, sage and rosemary are fairly hardy and can survive most Oregon winters. If you want to grow mint I would definitely advise growing it in a pot. Mint grows on runners and can quickly take over the yard. Most garden stores sell herb starts that you can take home, plunk in a pot, and start harvesting from (sparingly) right away. Make sure the pot and soil have good drainage, and water your plants regularly.
Lamb Stew has plenty of yummy herbs and is a great way to use a meat that’s often associated with spring. It tastes best after the flavors have time to blend, so I usually make it the day before I want to serve it. If you’re looking for something different for Easter dinner, Lamb Stew is a great choice.
Lemon-Herb Chicken is fast and easy to make. You can use whatever herbs you have on hand and it will still taste delicious.
Dried herbs work in these recipes too. Use one-third the amount of fresh herbs called for, as dried herbs have a stronger flavor. (For example, if a recipe calls for 1 tablespoon of fresh herbs, substitute 1 teaspoon of dried herbs.)
However, I’d suggest using fresh herbs whenever possible. It’s hard enough to find fresh food this time of year. Herbs are an easy way to capture the taste of spring without much effort or cost.
Lamb Stew
Makes 4 servings
1-1/2 lbs. lamb, cut into cubes
2 T. butter, divided
3 onions, quartered
3 carrots, thickly sliced
4 small red potatoes, quartered
2 c. beef stock
1/2 t. salt
1/4 t. pepper
1 T. flour
2 t. parsley, chopped
2 t. chives, chopped
1 t. thyme, chopped
Melt 1 T. butter in a large oven-proof kettle with lid. Saute meat over medium heat until brown; remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.
Saute carrots and onions in drippings until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add lamb, potatoes, stock, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil. Remove from stove, cover and place in oven. Bake at 350 degrees for 1 hour.
Remove meat and vegetables with a slotted spoon; set aside. Pour pan juices into a separate bowl. Add remaining 1 T. butter to pan and melt over medium heat. Add flour and stir until smooth. Whisk in pan juices. Bring to a boil and stir until thickened. Return meat and vegetables to pan. Add herbs and heat through.
Lemon-Herb Chicken with Angel Hair
Makes 2 servings
1/4 lb. angel hair pasta
1 T. butter
2 chicken breasts, cut into cubes
2 T. lemon juice
1 T. olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 T. minced mixed herbs (such as oregano, sage, thyme and rosemary)
1/4 t. pepper
1/4 c. parmesan cheese
Cook pasta according to package directions.
In the meantime, heat butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add chicken and cook until no longer pink. Add lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, herbs, and pepper. Cook, stirring often, for 1-2 minutes. Serve chicken over cooked pasta; sprinkle with parmesan cheese.
Friday, March 25, 2011
Sunday, March 13, 2011
Cacao Tree Inspires Chocolate Desserts
Christopher and I recently traveled to Kauai, the western-most Hawaiian island. We enjoyed some good food on our trip, including Kalua pork nachos, fresh pineapple, and a pie made with macadamia nut ice cream. However, my best foodie discovery turned out to be something I saw rather than something I ate.
One of our outings was a visit to the McBryde Garden, a tropical botanical garden. They have a variety of culinary plants including allspice and pepper trees, vanilla bean vines, ginger and turmeric roots, and – best of all – Theobroma cacao, the tree that produces chocolate.
Chocolate starts its life in a purple oblong pod. The pods produce seeds that are dried, roasted, and broken open to reveal the cocoa nibs, the real source of chocolate. The nibs are ground to produce cocoa butter and a dark brown liquid called chocolate liquor. The liquor can be left as-is and sold as unsweetened baking chocolate. Manufacturers add sugar and cocoa butter to produce bittersweet and semi-sweet chocolate. The addition of milk (either powdered or condensed) produces milk chocolate. Cocoa butter without the liquor makes white chocolate. Liquor with most of the fat and liquid removed is ground into baking cocoa.
Winter comes even in Kauai, so most of the culinary plants weren’t producing anything. The cacao tree, on the other hand, had dozens of purple pods hanging from it. That beautiful tree was the inspiration for this column, and I’m delighted to share a couple of my favorite chocolate recipes with you.
The first is Chocolate-Glazed Chocolate Tart. This recipe from Gourmet Magazine is the best chocolate dessert I've had in a long time. Thanks to my friend Shannon for bringing it to a party and passing on the recipe. The tart is super rich, so plan to cut it into very small slices.
You won’t believe something as amazing as Honey-Almond Truffles can have only three ingredients. A friend in Portland brought these to a Christmas party one year and I immediately asked for the recipe.
Another of my favorite chocolate desserts is Turtle Brownie Sundaes. It’s hard to beat chewy brownies topped with vanilla ice cream, caramel ice cream topping and pecans. After eating a macadamia nut turtle on Kauai I’m convinced you could substitute macadamia nuts for the pecans in this recipe with delicious – and tropical – results.
Honey-Almond Truffles
1 c. roasted unsalted almonds
¼ c. honey
1 c. bittersweet chocolate
Finely grind almonds. Pour into a bowl; mix in honey to make a paste (if honey is too thick, warm slightly to liquefy). Cover bowl and chill for one hour.
Shape mixture into balls no more than 1” in diameter. Set on a baking sheet lined with wax paper and chill in freezer for 30 minutes.
Melt chocolate in double boiler or microwave. Dip balls in chocolate until completely coated. Drizzle any remaining chocolate decoratively over the top. Chill one hour before serving. Store in refrigerator.
Turtle Brownie Sundaes
Makes 18 servings
1¼ c. flour
1¼ c. sugar
½ c. baking cocoa
1 t. baking powder
½ t. salt
4 eggs
¾ c. butter
2 c. toasted pecans, divided
Caramel ice cream topping
Vanilla ice cream
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9” x 13” pan and set aside.
In a large mixing bowl combine flour, sugar, baking cocoa, baking powder and salt. In a small bowl combine eggs and butter. Stir into flour mixture. Fold in pecans. Pour batter into prepared pan. Drizzle about 1/3 c. caramel ice cream topping over top of batter. Bake for 25-30 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Place pan on a wire rack and let cool completely.
Cut brownies into 2” x 3” rectangles. Place each on a plate and top with a scoop of ice cream, some caramel ice cream topping and about 1 T. pecans.
Friday, January 21, 2011
Paprika Stars in Comfort Foods
Paprika is one of those under-appreciated spices. Though often relegated to accenting deviled eggs and potato salad (and helping flamingos at the zoo keep their pink color), it has lots of great uses as a flavoring.
Paprika is made by drying and grinding red peppers. Some versions include the seeds from the pepper, which gives the spice more heat. Flavors range from sweet to very spicy. Specialty grocery stores may also carry smoked paprika, which is made from peppers that are smoked before they are ground. This type of paprika is particularly popular in Spanish cooking.
Although paprika originated in Mexico, it’s perhaps best known for its use in Hungarian cuisine. The powder was first introduced in Hungary as early as the 16th century. Today it’s used in many soups, stews, and meat dishes.
This warming spice is great for winter dishes in part because it’s used in such great comfort foods. Take, for example, Chicken Paprikash. If you want to do something different and delicious serve it over spaetzle, a Hungarian dumpling that’s similar to a noodle.
A couple tips for using paprika: it must be heated to activate its flavor, so don’t expect a burst of spiciness when you use it without cooking it first. Also, make sure you don’t confuse it with cayenne pepper. I once used a teaspoon of cayenne in place of some of the paprika in the paprikash recipe. It’s good to eat warm foods when it’s cold outside, but that was a little over the top.
Chicken Paprikash
Makes 8 servings
3 T. flour
2 lbs. chicken, cubed
1 T. oil
1/2 onion, chopped
1 red pepper, chopped
1 green pepper, chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 stalk celery, chopped
6 mushrooms, sliced
1-1/4 c. chicken stock
2 T. paprika
Pinch cayenne pepper
1 t. salt
1 t. pepper
1 c. sour cream
Cooked egg noodles
Toss chicken in flour. Heat oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Brown chicken in oil, about 4 minutes. Add onion, red pepper, green pepper, garlic, celery and mushrooms and cook until vegetables begin to soften, about 4 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add chicken stock, paprika, pepper, salt and pepper (make sure stock mostly covers chicken; if it doesn’t, add a little water). Bring to a boil, lower heat, cover, and let simmer for one hour or until chicken is very tender.
Add sour cream and heat through (do not boil). Serve over cooked egg noodles.
Paprika is made by drying and grinding red peppers. Some versions include the seeds from the pepper, which gives the spice more heat. Flavors range from sweet to very spicy. Specialty grocery stores may also carry smoked paprika, which is made from peppers that are smoked before they are ground. This type of paprika is particularly popular in Spanish cooking.
Although paprika originated in Mexico, it’s perhaps best known for its use in Hungarian cuisine. The powder was first introduced in Hungary as early as the 16th century. Today it’s used in many soups, stews, and meat dishes.
This warming spice is great for winter dishes in part because it’s used in such great comfort foods. Take, for example, Chicken Paprikash. If you want to do something different and delicious serve it over spaetzle, a Hungarian dumpling that’s similar to a noodle.
A couple tips for using paprika: it must be heated to activate its flavor, so don’t expect a burst of spiciness when you use it without cooking it first. Also, make sure you don’t confuse it with cayenne pepper. I once used a teaspoon of cayenne in place of some of the paprika in the paprikash recipe. It’s good to eat warm foods when it’s cold outside, but that was a little over the top.
Chicken Paprikash
Makes 8 servings
3 T. flour
2 lbs. chicken, cubed
1 T. oil
1/2 onion, chopped
1 red pepper, chopped
1 green pepper, chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 stalk celery, chopped
6 mushrooms, sliced
1-1/4 c. chicken stock
2 T. paprika
Pinch cayenne pepper
1 t. salt
1 t. pepper
1 c. sour cream
Cooked egg noodles
Toss chicken in flour. Heat oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Brown chicken in oil, about 4 minutes. Add onion, red pepper, green pepper, garlic, celery and mushrooms and cook until vegetables begin to soften, about 4 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add chicken stock, paprika, pepper, salt and pepper (make sure stock mostly covers chicken; if it doesn’t, add a little water). Bring to a boil, lower heat, cover, and let simmer for one hour or until chicken is very tender.
Add sour cream and heat through (do not boil). Serve over cooked egg noodles.
Friday, December 17, 2010
My Top 5 Cookbooks
Cookbooks make fantastic holiday gifts. Talk about the gift that keeps on giving!
Yet choosing a cookbook from the multitude available in the bookstore can feel like a daunting task. Here are five of the cookbooks I use most often or plan to add to my Christmas list:
First, the staple: the Joy of Cooking by Irma S. Rombauer, Marion Rombauer Becker, and Ethan Becker (Scribner, $35.00). But here’s an interesting twist: instead of buying the newest version, which was released in 2006, visit your nearest thrift store and pick up a copy from the 1970s or earlier. In the older cookbooks you’ll find the occasional gem of a recipe or tip, such as how to trap, butcher and prepare a possum or a beaver. Plus, having used both books, I like the recipes from the older version better.
The baker in your life needs Bernard Clayton’s New Complete Book of Bread by Bernard Clayton (Simon & Schuster Paperbacks, $22.00). This may be the greatest and most frequently used cookbook in my collection. Clayton has an engaging writing style and an incredible knowledge of baking. The book containers recipes for every type of bread you can imagine – yeast breads, sourdough breads, quick breads and muffins, breads from holiday traditions around the world, even a recipe for homemade hamburger buns. Recipes advise you on how to make most loaves by hand, in a mixer, or in a food processor, and offers great advice for the novice and the experienced baker.
Do you know someone who refuses to follow recipes? Do you ever find yourself staring at an avocado and thinking, “What can I do with this thing besides make guacamole?” The Flavor Bible: The Essential Guide to Culinary Creativity, Based on the Wisdom of America’s Most Imaginative Chefs by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg (Little, Brown, $35.00) may be just what you need. Instead of providing recipes, it provides charts for hundreds of meats, fruits, vegetables, herbs, and spices. Each chart tells you what foods pair best with tha ingredient, what season the food is available, its taste (sweet, sour, etc.), and the best cooking technique. That avocado, for example, will pair well with citrus and bitter greens (particularly frisee and Belgium endive), and kosher or sea salt will best bring out the flavor.
Vegetarians will love The New Moosewood Cookbook by Mollie Katzen (Ten Speed Press, $19.99). The Moosewood Cookbook originally came out in 1978, when vegetarianism was fairly rare. It is one of the 10 best-selling cookbooks of all time, according to the New York Times, and is in the James Beard Foundation’s Cookbook Hall of Fame. The cookbook contains delicious recipes like homemade Falafel, Hungarian Mushroom Soup, and Zuccanoes (Stuffed Zucchini). Even meat-eaters will be willing to dig into most of these dishes.
To be honest, most of my favorite recipes don’t come from cookbooks. They come from cooking magazines. For years I’ve subscribed to Taste of Home magazine and its sister publication, Healthy Cooking. Each magazine has a beautiful pictures as well as seasonal ideas for cooking and decorating, healthy living tips, and stories from other cooks around the country. The Taste of Home family also includes a magazine called Simple & Delicious for people who enjoy cooking with convenience foods. Subscription information is available online, or pick up a copy of one of the magazines in the grocery store. When giving a magazine subscription as a gift I enjoy buying the most recent copy and wrapping it with a note telling the person they will get a new gift from me every other month of the year.
Yet choosing a cookbook from the multitude available in the bookstore can feel like a daunting task. Here are five of the cookbooks I use most often or plan to add to my Christmas list:
First, the staple: the Joy of Cooking by Irma S. Rombauer, Marion Rombauer Becker, and Ethan Becker (Scribner, $35.00). But here’s an interesting twist: instead of buying the newest version, which was released in 2006, visit your nearest thrift store and pick up a copy from the 1970s or earlier. In the older cookbooks you’ll find the occasional gem of a recipe or tip, such as how to trap, butcher and prepare a possum or a beaver. Plus, having used both books, I like the recipes from the older version better.
The baker in your life needs Bernard Clayton’s New Complete Book of Bread by Bernard Clayton (Simon & Schuster Paperbacks, $22.00). This may be the greatest and most frequently used cookbook in my collection. Clayton has an engaging writing style and an incredible knowledge of baking. The book containers recipes for every type of bread you can imagine – yeast breads, sourdough breads, quick breads and muffins, breads from holiday traditions around the world, even a recipe for homemade hamburger buns. Recipes advise you on how to make most loaves by hand, in a mixer, or in a food processor, and offers great advice for the novice and the experienced baker.
Do you know someone who refuses to follow recipes? Do you ever find yourself staring at an avocado and thinking, “What can I do with this thing besides make guacamole?” The Flavor Bible: The Essential Guide to Culinary Creativity, Based on the Wisdom of America’s Most Imaginative Chefs by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg (Little, Brown, $35.00) may be just what you need. Instead of providing recipes, it provides charts for hundreds of meats, fruits, vegetables, herbs, and spices. Each chart tells you what foods pair best with tha ingredient, what season the food is available, its taste (sweet, sour, etc.), and the best cooking technique. That avocado, for example, will pair well with citrus and bitter greens (particularly frisee and Belgium endive), and kosher or sea salt will best bring out the flavor.
Vegetarians will love The New Moosewood Cookbook by Mollie Katzen (Ten Speed Press, $19.99). The Moosewood Cookbook originally came out in 1978, when vegetarianism was fairly rare. It is one of the 10 best-selling cookbooks of all time, according to the New York Times, and is in the James Beard Foundation’s Cookbook Hall of Fame. The cookbook contains delicious recipes like homemade Falafel, Hungarian Mushroom Soup, and Zuccanoes (Stuffed Zucchini). Even meat-eaters will be willing to dig into most of these dishes.
To be honest, most of my favorite recipes don’t come from cookbooks. They come from cooking magazines. For years I’ve subscribed to Taste of Home magazine and its sister publication, Healthy Cooking. Each magazine has a beautiful pictures as well as seasonal ideas for cooking and decorating, healthy living tips, and stories from other cooks around the country. The Taste of Home family also includes a magazine called Simple & Delicious for people who enjoy cooking with convenience foods. Subscription information is available online, or pick up a copy of one of the magazines in the grocery store. When giving a magazine subscription as a gift I enjoy buying the most recent copy and wrapping it with a note telling the person they will get a new gift from me every other month of the year.
Monday, November 29, 2010
Two Families' Secret Holiday Recipes
At the age of 95 my grandma Stella finally “retired” from the role as Thanksgiving dinner cook. Given my near-obsession with cooking, I immediately volunteered to take on the job. The only part that worried me was trying to duplicate one of my grandmother’s most cherished recipes: feather-light Ice Box Rolls that only appeared on the table at holidays.
Everyone in my family had tried to make rolls as good as my grandmother’s. They never succeeded. I knew Thanksgiving wouldn’t be the same without them. I had eaten those rolls every Thanksgiving and Christmas my entire life. Was I really up for the challenge?
Most families have a sacred recipe that makes its way to the table holiday after holiday. Funny enough, in my husband’s family it was also a recipe for rolls. Grandma Lucy’s Rohliky (the Czech word for “rolls”) were the thing everyone looked forward to at Thanksgiving dinner. The recipe comes via Bohemia, now a region of the Czech Republic, the area from which grandma Lucy’s family hailed.
Turns out my first batch of Ice Box Rolls were just as good as my grandmother’s. I’m convinced it’s because she stood next to me and walked me through each step. Each subsequent batch has been almost, but not quite, up to par.
Someday I’ll work up the nerve to make Rohliky and see if my husband can tell the difference. Unfortunately Grandma Lucy passed away in 2005 and isn’t here to help teach me. If you have a family member who makes a world-class recipe, ask if you can help them prepare it this holiday season. When you’re trying to preserve that special tradition there’s nothing like learning from the master.
Ice Box Rolls
Makes about 24 rolls
1 c. mashed potatoes
2/3 c. shortening
2/3 c. sugar
1 c. milk
2 eggs
1 t. salt
1 yeast cake (or one package yeast)
3 c. plus extra flour
2 T. butter, melted
Place shortening, potatoes, and sugar in a large mixing bowl. Scald milk; add and stir well. Let mixture cool to lukewarm, then add eggs and salt. Crumble yeast in your hand and stir into milk mixture. Stir in only enough flour to make mixture the consistency of pancake batter (about 1 cup). Cover with plastic and let rise in the refrigerator until doubled, 1-2 hours.
Stir in enough flour to make a stiff dough. Cover, place bowl back in refrigerator, and let rise overnight (checking once and punching down if necessary to keep dough from flowing out of pan).
Shape as desired. To make Parker House rolls: On a lightly floured board, roll dough to 1/4" thickness. Cut out with a biscuit cutter. Brush both sides of roll in butter. Using a knife, make a small crease in the center, then fold so one side is slightly off-set from the other. Place rolls in ungreased 13” x 9” pan. Cover with a towel and let rise at room temperature for about four hours.
Cook at 375 degrees for 15-20 minutes or until golden brown.
Rohliky
Makes 25 rolls
3 c. flour
1/4 c. sugar
1 t. salt
1/4 c. shortening
1 egg, beaten
1 c. warm milk
1 envelope yeast, dissolved in 2 T. warm water and ¼ t. sugar
For topping:
1 egg, beaten
1 T. water
Poppy seeds or sesame seeds
In a large bowl, combine flour, sugar and salt. Add shortening and mix well. Add egg, milk and yeast and stir to combine. Dough will be a little sticky.
Grease bowl, then return dough. Cover bowl with a towel and put in a warm place. Let rise until doubled. Punch down and let rise again.
Tear off a chunk of dough big enough to fit in your palm. Roll between your hands into a rope as big around as a nickel and about six inches long. Tie in a loose knot. Place on a greased baking sheet; curve ends slightly.
Combine egg and water; brush over top of each roll. Sprinkle with poppy seeds or sesame seeds. Cover with a towel and let rise again. Bake at 375 degrees for 15-20 minutes or until golden brown.
Everyone in my family had tried to make rolls as good as my grandmother’s. They never succeeded. I knew Thanksgiving wouldn’t be the same without them. I had eaten those rolls every Thanksgiving and Christmas my entire life. Was I really up for the challenge?
Most families have a sacred recipe that makes its way to the table holiday after holiday. Funny enough, in my husband’s family it was also a recipe for rolls. Grandma Lucy’s Rohliky (the Czech word for “rolls”) were the thing everyone looked forward to at Thanksgiving dinner. The recipe comes via Bohemia, now a region of the Czech Republic, the area from which grandma Lucy’s family hailed.
Turns out my first batch of Ice Box Rolls were just as good as my grandmother’s. I’m convinced it’s because she stood next to me and walked me through each step. Each subsequent batch has been almost, but not quite, up to par.
Someday I’ll work up the nerve to make Rohliky and see if my husband can tell the difference. Unfortunately Grandma Lucy passed away in 2005 and isn’t here to help teach me. If you have a family member who makes a world-class recipe, ask if you can help them prepare it this holiday season. When you’re trying to preserve that special tradition there’s nothing like learning from the master.
Ice Box Rolls
Makes about 24 rolls
1 c. mashed potatoes
2/3 c. shortening
2/3 c. sugar
1 c. milk
2 eggs
1 t. salt
1 yeast cake (or one package yeast)
3 c. plus extra flour
2 T. butter, melted
Place shortening, potatoes, and sugar in a large mixing bowl. Scald milk; add and stir well. Let mixture cool to lukewarm, then add eggs and salt. Crumble yeast in your hand and stir into milk mixture. Stir in only enough flour to make mixture the consistency of pancake batter (about 1 cup). Cover with plastic and let rise in the refrigerator until doubled, 1-2 hours.
Stir in enough flour to make a stiff dough. Cover, place bowl back in refrigerator, and let rise overnight (checking once and punching down if necessary to keep dough from flowing out of pan).
Shape as desired. To make Parker House rolls: On a lightly floured board, roll dough to 1/4" thickness. Cut out with a biscuit cutter. Brush both sides of roll in butter. Using a knife, make a small crease in the center, then fold so one side is slightly off-set from the other. Place rolls in ungreased 13” x 9” pan. Cover with a towel and let rise at room temperature for about four hours.
Cook at 375 degrees for 15-20 minutes or until golden brown.
Rohliky
Makes 25 rolls
3 c. flour
1/4 c. sugar
1 t. salt
1/4 c. shortening
1 egg, beaten
1 c. warm milk
1 envelope yeast, dissolved in 2 T. warm water and ¼ t. sugar
For topping:
1 egg, beaten
1 T. water
Poppy seeds or sesame seeds
In a large bowl, combine flour, sugar and salt. Add shortening and mix well. Add egg, milk and yeast and stir to combine. Dough will be a little sticky.
Grease bowl, then return dough. Cover bowl with a towel and put in a warm place. Let rise until doubled. Punch down and let rise again.
Tear off a chunk of dough big enough to fit in your palm. Roll between your hands into a rope as big around as a nickel and about six inches long. Tie in a loose knot. Place on a greased baking sheet; curve ends slightly.
Combine egg and water; brush over top of each roll. Sprinkle with poppy seeds or sesame seeds. Cover with a towel and let rise again. Bake at 375 degrees for 15-20 minutes or until golden brown.
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
A Lesson in Cooking Oils
I try to keep up on current health trends and consider myself relatively knowledgeable about food. So when a lengthy article claiming that canola oil was bad for you appeared on my Twitter feed I was shocked. Canola oil was supposed to be the best thing since sliced bread, the heart-healthy oil. And now I hear it can cause diseases?
The next blow came when my sister informed me olive oil has carcinogenic properties when you cook it. All the cooks I admire use olive oil. Lots of it, in some cases. Could it really be true?
In my despair I called my friend Yaakov Levine. Yaakov is a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner with offices in Creswell and Eugene and a columnist for the Creswell Chronicle (see copies of his past columns here). Surely he could offer an answer to my oil dilemma.
He did, although he didn’t have quite the answers I was looking for. Canola oil is, in fact, not the healthy alternative it’s touted to be. “Some people call [canola oil] ‘Franken-oil’,” he said. It’s made from genetically modified seeds and must be highly processed before it goes to market, which strips out most of the benefits. (Here is a copy of the original article on NaturalNews.com that tipped me off about canola oil).
And “The World’s Healthiest Foods” by George Mateljan, my favorite food reference book, states that heating olive oil at high temperatures can cause the “formation of unwanted aromatic substances . . . in the oil that can increase our risk of chronic health problems including cancer.”
So what’s a cook to do? “We all need fat in our diet,” Yaakov was quick to point out. Fat gives our cells structure and our bodies energy. There are essential fats that we need that our bodies can’t produce, so we need to find them elsewhere.
The key is choosing the right fat. Yaakov is a proponent of coconut oil. It’s easy to digest, provides plenty of energy, and has a nice flavor. Added bonus in the winter – it has anti-bacterial properties that help prevent colds and flus. Try it when cooking vegetables, in a smoothie, or in Gooey Balls, a dessert recipe provided by Yaakov.
Butter and lard are Yaakov’s other fats of choice. Skip the brick of lard at the grocery store, which is likely to have trans fats. Visit your local butcher instead and see if he or she has a source for something produced locally.
High-oleic sunflower oil is an option in recipes where you don’t want the taste of the oil to be overpowering – for example, Red Onion Salad Dressing, a staple around my house. (A high-oleic oil is one that is high in monounsaturated acid, a “good” fat.) High-oleic safflower oil can be used on the rare occasion when you must deep-fry something.
Eaten at room temperature, or even used for light frying, olive oil is still a good choice.
“What leads me down the road toward more traditional fats is that we have problems with diseases now that we didn’t use to have,” Yaakov says. 100 years ago “they weren’t eating so many plant and seed fats like we are now.” Heart disease is now the leading cause of death for Americans, and poor diet is part of the reason for that.
Whatever type of oil you use, store it in a dark colored bottle and out of direct light. Oil turns rancid quite easily.
All fats should still be used sparingly. Here’s one last tip on lowering your consumption of heated oils: the next time a recipe directs you to brown meat in oil, use a little bit of high-quality stock instead. It will add extra flavor and keep the meat from sticking to the pan. Freeze stock in ice cube trays and store the cubes in plastic bags so you always have some handy.
Gooey Balls
1 c. coconut oil
2 c. shredded coconut
1 c. sesame seeds
6 dates, finely chopped
Pinch high mineral sea salt
Vanilla or orange extract to taste
Melt coconut oil gently (it melts at 76 degrees). Stir in remaining ingredients. Form into balls, place on a baking sheet, and chill.
(Note: For a less sweet option, replace the dates with a grated apple and a drizzle of lemon juice.)
Red Onion Salad Dressing
1/2 c. champagne or apple cider vinegar
1/4 red onion
2 T. honey
1 t. Dijon mustard
1 t. salt
1/2 c. high-oleic sunflower oil
Place vinegar, onion, honey, mustard and salt in a blender. Blend until well combined. With blender on, add oil in a slow, steady stream until well combined.
The next blow came when my sister informed me olive oil has carcinogenic properties when you cook it. All the cooks I admire use olive oil. Lots of it, in some cases. Could it really be true?
In my despair I called my friend Yaakov Levine. Yaakov is a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner with offices in Creswell and Eugene and a columnist for the Creswell Chronicle (see copies of his past columns here). Surely he could offer an answer to my oil dilemma.
He did, although he didn’t have quite the answers I was looking for. Canola oil is, in fact, not the healthy alternative it’s touted to be. “Some people call [canola oil] ‘Franken-oil’,” he said. It’s made from genetically modified seeds and must be highly processed before it goes to market, which strips out most of the benefits. (Here is a copy of the original article on NaturalNews.com that tipped me off about canola oil).
And “The World’s Healthiest Foods” by George Mateljan, my favorite food reference book, states that heating olive oil at high temperatures can cause the “formation of unwanted aromatic substances . . . in the oil that can increase our risk of chronic health problems including cancer.”
So what’s a cook to do? “We all need fat in our diet,” Yaakov was quick to point out. Fat gives our cells structure and our bodies energy. There are essential fats that we need that our bodies can’t produce, so we need to find them elsewhere.
The key is choosing the right fat. Yaakov is a proponent of coconut oil. It’s easy to digest, provides plenty of energy, and has a nice flavor. Added bonus in the winter – it has anti-bacterial properties that help prevent colds and flus. Try it when cooking vegetables, in a smoothie, or in Gooey Balls, a dessert recipe provided by Yaakov.
Butter and lard are Yaakov’s other fats of choice. Skip the brick of lard at the grocery store, which is likely to have trans fats. Visit your local butcher instead and see if he or she has a source for something produced locally.
High-oleic sunflower oil is an option in recipes where you don’t want the taste of the oil to be overpowering – for example, Red Onion Salad Dressing, a staple around my house. (A high-oleic oil is one that is high in monounsaturated acid, a “good” fat.) High-oleic safflower oil can be used on the rare occasion when you must deep-fry something.
Eaten at room temperature, or even used for light frying, olive oil is still a good choice.
“What leads me down the road toward more traditional fats is that we have problems with diseases now that we didn’t use to have,” Yaakov says. 100 years ago “they weren’t eating so many plant and seed fats like we are now.” Heart disease is now the leading cause of death for Americans, and poor diet is part of the reason for that.
Whatever type of oil you use, store it in a dark colored bottle and out of direct light. Oil turns rancid quite easily.
All fats should still be used sparingly. Here’s one last tip on lowering your consumption of heated oils: the next time a recipe directs you to brown meat in oil, use a little bit of high-quality stock instead. It will add extra flavor and keep the meat from sticking to the pan. Freeze stock in ice cube trays and store the cubes in plastic bags so you always have some handy.
Gooey Balls
1 c. coconut oil
2 c. shredded coconut
1 c. sesame seeds
6 dates, finely chopped
Pinch high mineral sea salt
Vanilla or orange extract to taste
Melt coconut oil gently (it melts at 76 degrees). Stir in remaining ingredients. Form into balls, place on a baking sheet, and chill.
(Note: For a less sweet option, replace the dates with a grated apple and a drizzle of lemon juice.)
Red Onion Salad Dressing
1/2 c. champagne or apple cider vinegar
1/4 red onion
2 T. honey
1 t. Dijon mustard
1 t. salt
1/2 c. high-oleic sunflower oil
Place vinegar, onion, honey, mustard and salt in a blender. Blend until well combined. With blender on, add oil in a slow, steady stream until well combined.
Monday, November 8, 2010
Top Five Winter Squash Recipes
Forgive me for having a total foodie moment, but I had the most amazing squash experience the other day.
I should start by saying that I don't really like squash. I've come to enjoy butternut in some things, and I'll eat a slice of pumpkin pie if it has enough whipped cream on it. But most of the time, everything about it grosses me out.
But since I make pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving every year, I wanted to try cooking and freezing a Hubbard squash. My cousin always used flesh from the blue gourd in pies and got rave results.
I picked up a squash at the farmers' market one Saturday. I quartered it, scooped out the seeds (which were excellent roasted in the oven with some butter, seasoning salt and minced garlic, by the way, but that's another story), and roasted it in the oven. When it finally came out of the oven the flesh was dark, wrinkly and stringy-looking. It didn't exactly scream "perfect holiday dessert." As soon as it cooled I scooped the soft flesh into a bowl and let it chill in the fridge for a couple days while I tried to figure out what to do with it.
Eventually inspiration struck. I could put the squash through a food mill. That would catch the stringy, icky parts and keep them separate from the squash I could actually use.
I set to work with my mom's old food mill, a cone-shaped strainer with a wooden paddle. Soon bright orange squash starting coming out the tiny holes in the mill. I scraped it down into the bowl before setting to work on the next chunk of squash.
All the squash, even the parts that looked inedible, were smooth as custard by the time I was done. The more I handled the squash with my (very clean) hands, the more I marveled at the incredible texture of it. I'd never seen squash so smooth - except in those cans of pumpkin pie filling. Who know you could produce something so lovely at home?
Alas, I ran out of squash way too quickly. I scooped two-cup portions into freezer bags and packed them away. My squash weighed less than 10 pounds and yielded nearly six cups of can-perfect pie filling.
I have yet to actually try the squash, but I'm hoping it will continue to change my opinion about this vitamin-packed veggie. After Thanksgiving I'll post an update on how I do!
Which brings me to... a squash skeptic's five favorite ways to use winter squash:
1) Pumpkin Pie: This recipe from Martha Stewart Living includes chipotle chili powder, which makes an already-amazing pie recipe even better.
2) Apple-Cheddar-Squash Soup: from The Food Network. Sure, it has squash, but it also has good things too, like apples and cheese and potatoes. Smoked gouda is good in place of the cheddar too.
3) Winter Squash Risotto with Prosciutto, Hazelnuts and Sage: Originally from the Oregonian's FOODday section, one of the my favorite recipe resources. Don't scrimp on the hazelnuts. They really add a lot.
4) & 5) I admit I haven't tried these two recipes, but they come highly recommended by my friend who works at FOOD for Lane County. I'm sure they're good... if you like eating squash. Me, I may stick with mostly playing with it.
Butternut Squash and Ginger Soup
1 butternut squash
2 T. butter
1 onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, sliced
2 T. fresh ginger root, minced
6 c. water or stock
2 t. salt
Apple cider vinegar
Crème fraîche or sour cream
Toasted hazelnuts, chopped
Cut squash in half lengthwise and place on a rimmed baking sheet, cut side down, with water in the pan. Cook at 375 degrees for 45 minutes or until the squash is soft. Scoop out the seeds and set aside (seeds can be roasted later if desired). Scoop out the flesh and place in a bowl.
Heat butter in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger root and cook until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add the cooked squash, water or stock, and salt; bring to a simmer. Cook until the squash is tender enough to smash with a spoon, about 30 minutes.
Puree the soup with an immersion or upright blender. Ladle the soup through a strainer into a clean soup pot, discarding any bits of squash or ginger left behind.
Heat the soup through once more and season to taste, adding salt first and then the vinegar. Add the vinegar one-half teaspoon at a time; it will take a little more than 1 tablespoon.
To serve, ladle the soup into wide bowls and spoon 1 to 2 tablespoons of crème fraîche onto each. Scatter a few toasted hazelnuts over the soup and serve immediately.
Stuffed Acorn Squash
1 acorn squash
2 c. chopped apples
1 c. roasted walnuts
1 T. maple syrup
2 T. melted butter
½ t. salt
Slice squash in half lengthwise, remove seeds, and place face down on a rimmed baking sheet. Cook at 375 degrees until squash is just tender, 25-40 minutes.
Combine remaining ingredients. Scoop filling into the center cavity and bake squash face up for another 10-15 minutes or until tender.
I should start by saying that I don't really like squash. I've come to enjoy butternut in some things, and I'll eat a slice of pumpkin pie if it has enough whipped cream on it. But most of the time, everything about it grosses me out.
But since I make pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving every year, I wanted to try cooking and freezing a Hubbard squash. My cousin always used flesh from the blue gourd in pies and got rave results.
I picked up a squash at the farmers' market one Saturday. I quartered it, scooped out the seeds (which were excellent roasted in the oven with some butter, seasoning salt and minced garlic, by the way, but that's another story), and roasted it in the oven. When it finally came out of the oven the flesh was dark, wrinkly and stringy-looking. It didn't exactly scream "perfect holiday dessert." As soon as it cooled I scooped the soft flesh into a bowl and let it chill in the fridge for a couple days while I tried to figure out what to do with it.
Eventually inspiration struck. I could put the squash through a food mill. That would catch the stringy, icky parts and keep them separate from the squash I could actually use.
I set to work with my mom's old food mill, a cone-shaped strainer with a wooden paddle. Soon bright orange squash starting coming out the tiny holes in the mill. I scraped it down into the bowl before setting to work on the next chunk of squash.
All the squash, even the parts that looked inedible, were smooth as custard by the time I was done. The more I handled the squash with my (very clean) hands, the more I marveled at the incredible texture of it. I'd never seen squash so smooth - except in those cans of pumpkin pie filling. Who know you could produce something so lovely at home?
Alas, I ran out of squash way too quickly. I scooped two-cup portions into freezer bags and packed them away. My squash weighed less than 10 pounds and yielded nearly six cups of can-perfect pie filling.
I have yet to actually try the squash, but I'm hoping it will continue to change my opinion about this vitamin-packed veggie. After Thanksgiving I'll post an update on how I do!
Which brings me to... a squash skeptic's five favorite ways to use winter squash:
1) Pumpkin Pie: This recipe from Martha Stewart Living includes chipotle chili powder, which makes an already-amazing pie recipe even better.
2) Apple-Cheddar-Squash Soup: from The Food Network. Sure, it has squash, but it also has good things too, like apples and cheese and potatoes. Smoked gouda is good in place of the cheddar too.
3) Winter Squash Risotto with Prosciutto, Hazelnuts and Sage: Originally from the Oregonian's FOODday section, one of the my favorite recipe resources. Don't scrimp on the hazelnuts. They really add a lot.
4) & 5) I admit I haven't tried these two recipes, but they come highly recommended by my friend who works at FOOD for Lane County. I'm sure they're good... if you like eating squash. Me, I may stick with mostly playing with it.
Butternut Squash and Ginger Soup
1 butternut squash
2 T. butter
1 onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, sliced
2 T. fresh ginger root, minced
6 c. water or stock
2 t. salt
Apple cider vinegar
Crème fraîche or sour cream
Toasted hazelnuts, chopped
Cut squash in half lengthwise and place on a rimmed baking sheet, cut side down, with water in the pan. Cook at 375 degrees for 45 minutes or until the squash is soft. Scoop out the seeds and set aside (seeds can be roasted later if desired). Scoop out the flesh and place in a bowl.
Heat butter in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger root and cook until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add the cooked squash, water or stock, and salt; bring to a simmer. Cook until the squash is tender enough to smash with a spoon, about 30 minutes.
Puree the soup with an immersion or upright blender. Ladle the soup through a strainer into a clean soup pot, discarding any bits of squash or ginger left behind.
Heat the soup through once more and season to taste, adding salt first and then the vinegar. Add the vinegar one-half teaspoon at a time; it will take a little more than 1 tablespoon.
To serve, ladle the soup into wide bowls and spoon 1 to 2 tablespoons of crème fraîche onto each. Scatter a few toasted hazelnuts over the soup and serve immediately.
Stuffed Acorn Squash
1 acorn squash
2 c. chopped apples
1 c. roasted walnuts
1 T. maple syrup
2 T. melted butter
½ t. salt
Slice squash in half lengthwise, remove seeds, and place face down on a rimmed baking sheet. Cook at 375 degrees until squash is just tender, 25-40 minutes.
Combine remaining ingredients. Scoop filling into the center cavity and bake squash face up for another 10-15 minutes or until tender.
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